
The sea slaps at the sides of the multicoloured fishing boats as fishermen mend their nets on the dock and a young boy pulls platinum-scaled fish out of the water on a handline.
Watching the scene from a suntrap table at a waterside cafe in Agia Marina, the main town of Leros, I can’t understand how this Greek island could ever have been known as the “Isle of Outcasts” or the “Island of the Damned”.