It's nothing flash. A tiny Pokolbin vineyard, not really picturesque, near the road.
It doesn't have a name as so many vineyards do, is just two acres, and has a pretty tough life.
Sitting on a small hill, it is regularly battered by hot westerly wind, occasional southerlies, and hail never seems to tire of giving it a hammering.
If that's not enough, being on top of the hill means it's unprotected from those long, baking summer afternoons.
"We just call it the hill," Lake's Folly winemaker Rod Kempe said, almost apologetically.
"We're not paid for our creativity with names."
The thing about this tough little vineyard is that, when the weather gives it half a chance, the 60-odd-year old vines produce some of the best shiraz in the Hunter Valley.
Lake's Folly is nationally recognised for its cabernet and chardonnay, but the shiraz, only made in miniscule amounts - "a token amount really, 150 to 180 dozen or so" - has also proved a huge success since its inception in 2017.
The vineyard was part of the neighbouring block that Lake's Folly bought in 2007 should it ever need to expand.
"There was the shiraz vineyard, some semillon down on the flat, and a dam that never seems to run out of water," Kempe said.
"The semillon wasn't up to scratch, so we sold off some of the land we'd bought including the semillon vineyard. We kept the old shiraz vineyard and the dam, which was an incredible acquisition for us."
In the early years, the shiraz fruit went into red blends, but that all changed in the outstanding 2017 vintage. In short, Kempe was blown away by its quality and made his first straight shiraz.
"But I needed to make sure I wasn't getting carried away, so I got the team to go out and buy 23 of the benchmark Hunter shiraz from around the valley, to put up against it," he said.
"I got a few fellow winemakers to blind taste them with me so we could compare."
And how did the little battler do?
"It didn't win . . . but it did remarkably well. It was up there."
The modestly named Hill Block Shiraz, at $120, was up and running.
"We've only made five vintages of shiraz in the 17 years since the purchase - that's how much the weather affects it," he said.
"It's costly to produce because we leave about half the fruit on the ground.
"That super-low cropping helps the vines get riper faster, so there's more of a chance of it producing some good fruit if it gets hit by the westerlies."
And the wine itself?
"A very fresh, vibrant style, true Hunter . . . medium bodied, earthy, lifted perfume, spice. Most of the feedback is how fresh and vibrant it is."
And most definitely Lakes Folly quality.
WINE REVIEWS
LOFTY REPUTATION
Lake's Folly Hill Block Shiraz, 2023
$120
This screams quality Hunter shiraz. Deep ruby, it's only medium weight but, as the best Hunter offerings do, it carries a silky oomph. Earthy dark cherry flavours nudging into blue fruit territory, a pinch of spice, a savoury element coming through late, tenaciously persistent, there's a lot to like. Took a while to open, and drank even better the second night.
HERE'S TO SALAD DAYS
The Vintner's Daughter Rose, 2022
$32
More and more Australian roses are being made in a dry style, and the drinking world is a much better place for it. This is a blend of shiraz, merlot and sangiovese from the Hilltops region. It's all about easy-drinking red berry freshness, simple as that. Great with a salad or to sit back and sip on a balmy afternoon.
TEXTURED TREAT
Taylors St Andrews Riesling, 2024
$45
The barest hint of colour, almost clear, with white flowers and lime cordial on the nose. Light and delicate yet, at the same time, searingly precise. I'm hooked from the start. Lime, lemon curd, a slice of ginger, focused and taut, riding along on the back of piercing acidity. As much about texture as flavour. Downright delicious.
