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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Jay Rayner

Gordo’s, Guildford: ‘It’s a food adventure playground’ – restaurant review

Rafael Onate in dark blue chef's apron, carrying a board of dips in colourful dining room at Gordo's
Spice of life: Rafael Onate at Gordo’s. Photograph: Sophia Evans/The Observer

Gordo’s, 73a North Street, Guildford GU1 4AW (07737 981825; gordos.uk). Starters £8.95-£13, mains £10.50-£15, dessert £6.50-£10.25, beers £5.50, wines from £23

The first time I met Guildford it was drunk. Proper raging, steaming drunk. An editor with a dark sense of humour had sent me to the town’s booze barns on a Friday night 20 years ago, to report a piece on binge-drinking Britain. You try interviewing inebriated twentysomethings just as their blood alcohol is rising. I remember one of them shouting all their indignant comments at my notebook, as if it was a Dictaphone. Happily, I later learned that, courtesy of the Guildford School of Acting, it also has one of the UK’s pre-eminent musical theatre courses. I much preferred to think of Guildford as all jazz hands, time steps and moistly emotional choruses of 525,600 Minutes.

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