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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Environment
Emma Bryce

Goodbye cod, hello herring: why putting a different fish on your dish will help the planet

A display of fresh fish of different sizes lying on a bed of ice
Seafood platter: a display of the fresh catch at the Falmouth fishmonger Pysk, including hake, gurnard, ling, red mullet, megrim and lemon sole. The Gilberts, who run Pysk, know which boats landed all of the fish and shellfish for sale. Photograph: Emli Bendixen/The Guardian

Perched on a quay in the Cornish port of Falmouth is Pysk fishmongers, where Giles and Sarah Gilbert started out with a dream to supply locally caught seafood to the town. Their catch comes mainly from small boats that deliver a glittering array of local fish: gleaming red mullets, iridescent mackerels, spotted dabs and bright white scallops, still snapping in their shells.

Occasionally, they will get a treasured haul of local common prawns – stripy, smaller and sweeter than the frozen, imported varieties in UK supermarkets. So, when customers come into the shop asking for prawns, Giles Gilbert presents “these bouncing jack-in-a-boxes” with a flourish, hoping to tempt buyers with the fresh, live shellfish.

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