Bob Marley, reggae, Usain Bolt, Red Stripe and an unlikely bobsleigh team… Jamaica has given the world many brilliant things. Not least James Bond, who was birthed at the typewriter of Ian Fleming in his Jamaican hideaway, GoldenEye. If your pockets are deep enough, you can rent Fleming’s original villa and, yes, his writing desk is still there.
This is where Scaramanga and his three nipples and secret tropical lair were dreamt up: with its panoramic view over Oracabessa Bay and private beach, it’s easy to see how the latter came into Fleming’s mind; one can only wonder about the former.
Chris Blackwell, the music-mogul behind Island Records, has owned GoldenEye since 1976. His friend Bob Marley sold it to him after complaining it was “too posh”. But Blackwell’s relationship with this special place goes way back: he remembers as a child visiting Fleming here with his mother, Blanche, who was one of the novelist’s BFFs. In fact, it was Blackwell’s uncle who originally found the land for Fleming back in 1946 when it was nothing more than 15 acres of overgrown shrub and a derelict donkey racetrack. Fast-forward to today and, after some ingenious development, GoldenEye is on the bucket list of every self-respecting traveller.
Needless to say, when an invitation to visit popped up in my inbox my wife and I didn’t need any persuading. Which reminds me of that old and not very funny joke, you know the one: “I went to the Caribbean recently with my wife.” Jamaica? “No, she was happy to go.” Sorry, I told you it wasn’t very funny. Back to GoldenEye.
Now set over 56 acres, this village-like resort consists of cottages and villas snaking along a lagoon and little huts perched on stilts over Low Cay Beach. Originally designed by Barbara Hulanicki, the genius behind London’s long-gone emporium Biba, each property is an exercise in low-key luxury. Ours (beachfront hut #45) was a delight, thanks in no small part to its sea-view veranda: the ideal place to enjoy an early morning Blue Mountain coffee or a sundowner punch (the complimentary bottle of Blackwell Rum was a nice touch).
For the adventurous, there are plenty of activities from kayaking along the coast and paddle boarding around the lagoon to snorkeling off the nearby coral reef. Personally, I found my happy place on Button Beach, dipping in its bath-like waters and staying “hydrated” at the well-stocked Bamboo Bar; I still think about the jerk BBQ lunch at its adjoining grill. Dinner under the stars at the Bizot Restaurant was also unforgettable: we had a delicious curried fish stew accompanied by a local musician performing a transcendent version of Drive by The Cars. From live bands every night to hidden speakers on the beach, music is everywhere at GoldenEye.
Another standout was the Swedish Aroma Massage at the property’s FieldSpa, housed in Naomi Campbell’s old holiday cottage on the lagoon. On the walk there I passed a forest of trees planted by famous names including Johnny Depp, Willie Nelson and Kate Moss. I spotted Lila Moss’ East Indian Mango planted in 2011 and sent a quick pic to her father, Jefferson. “Great to see it’s thriving,” he texted back. Sadly the same can’t be said for Cindy Crawford’s withered tree: somebody please water it.
What Blackwell and his team have done at GoldenEye is clever. They have taken all the raw ingredients of Jamaica — the food, the music, the easy-come atmosphere — and reimagined it into a high-performing, customer-friendly idyll. Case in point: Sherifia, our personal concierge, was on Whatsapp 24/7 for all our needs, signing off every message with a “one love”. But if it’s the authentic, chaotic edge of the island you’re after, don’t worry: it’s waiting for you just in earshot on the other side of Button Beach.
Leaving the blissful sanctity of GoldenEye was never going to be an easy process so we tagged on a quick stay at its twin property Strawberry Hill. Nestled up high in the Blue Mountains (365 hairpin corners to be precise), it’s a magical spot with small cottages hugging the steep hillside, an infinity pool overlooking Kingston far below and humming birds at breakfast. According to our in-the-know taxi driver, it’s up for sale, so hurry. Bond villains need not apply.
Rates at GoldenEye start from £388 and from £292 for Strawberry Hill. elegantresorts.co.uk
