The pandemic sent us all wild for skincare, as we temporarily zipped up our makeup bags and got stuck in to home facials and DIY TikTok treatments.
But have you descended into bad habits? Probably, according to virtually all of the top dermatologists, aesthetic doctors and skincare experts I spoke to for this article, who predominantly share one concern: you’re overdoing it on the skincare front — over exfoliation and overuse of retinoids is now rife — and that can lead to all manners of issues further down the line.
So step away from the acids, and adopt these expert-approved skin hacks instead.
Keep it simple with a ‘Holy Trinity’ of products
When it comes to seeing results from a good skincare routine, consistency is crucial, stresses Harley Street-based aesthetic doctor Dr David Jack. “I’m a firm believer in simplicity when it comes to topical skincare. Look for simple and high-quality products that support the skin’s barrier and microbiome — which are essentially its repair and defence mechanisms — not arduous routines and harsh actives,” he says. “For quite a long time now, active skincare has been all about stripping the skin back with acids and strong ingredients, however, there is now a movement to suggest that this may actually induce more inflammation and have a negative effect on the skin over the longer term.
“Aside from cleansing the skin, I generally use only three products in my daily routine — what I call the ‘Holy Trinity’ — an antioxidant serum to protect against pollutants and UV rays; sunscreen to protect against UV damage and other forms of oxidative stress and an antioxidant night cream to neutralise free radicals from the day before and also to provide nutrition to the skin cells which divide at a higher rate overnight.” So convinced is Jack of the simple approach, that his own (recently reformulated) Dr David Jack skincare line features just this trio of products.
“Keeping it simple makes it easier to adhere to long term and results from good skincare are about the marathon, not the sprint,” he adds.
Do not over exfoliate
It will not give you the glowing complexion you desire and might even give the reverse effect, insists super-facialist Pietro Simone, who runs his own eponymous skincare range. “The most common mistake I see the younger generation and anti-ageing fanatics making right now is using three to four products a day which contain some form of acid or retinol — this is a very dangerous path to take,” he warns. “Exfoliation should be carefully thought through and taken through calibrated steps to support the skin’s renewal process.” Bear in mind that the skin cycle is between 28 and 36 days. “If done in exaggeration, the epidermis gets exhausted, and the skin barrier and its functions get intensively damaged, leading to tired, reactive skin.”
Listen to your skin’s needs each day
Dr Sophie Shotter agrees that “more isn’t always more when it comes to skincare.”
“I’ve seen such a huge trend the last few years for people having super complex multi-step routines. In my experience this really doesn’t usually deliver results, and can lead to barrier compromise,” she says.
When you do want to give your skin some extra TLC, she advises you “think of your skincare shelf as an artist’s palette and the products on it as different paints — you don’t always need all of them.
“Take time to learn what each one does. Rather than automatically going in for a 10-step routine every morning, take a moment to think about how your skin feels today — is it dry and tight? Is it feeling a little oilier today? Do you have breakouts?
“Our skin changes throughout our hormonal cycle, as well as according to environmental factors, so it doesn’t need the same routine every day.”
Quantity counts (almost as much as quality)
How you apply a product is almost as important as what’s in it, argues cosmetic dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting, founder of Dr Sam’s Skincare. Particularly when it comes to skincare steps as sacred as applying SPF (yes, you need it every day; yes, even in the winter). So Bunting developed her so-called “13-dot technique” to simplify things.
“The single most important behaviour for great skin is consistency. I developed my 13-dot technique to ensure my patients applied critical steps like daily sunscreen correctly because it’s the details that really count. With this technique you’re not tempted to skimp on quantity or miss areas out. It’s simple but highly effective.”
Try it and you’ll be surprised by how much product you should be using with each application.
Check the UV index regularly
Whilst we’re on the topic of SPF, dermatologist, skin researcher and Avène ambassador Dr Beibei Du-Harpur (@dermatology_demystified), wants you to get acquainted with the UV index. “The sun is the major cause of skin ageing (wrinkles and pigmentation) and skin cancer (something that tends to go hand in hand with skin ageing). Even for those who are diligent about sunscreen, it’s possible to get caught out and get burnt because sunscreen rubs off or sweats off.
“The core of sun protection is not sunscreen, but behaviour and being aware of the UV index can help you risk assess and avoid sunburn. The UV index is an international measure of UV radiation — you can find it tailored to your time and location on the weather app of your phone,” Du-Harpur explains.
Check it regularly, particularly if you’re on holiday in a hot country. “For example, the UV index may be 10 at noon, but only 2/3 at dusk — in which case it is far better to do your exploring then. It can be surprising how high the UV index can be even when it’s overcast, or not particularly hot,” she continues.
Apply hyaluronic acid on damp skin
Hyaluronic acid is considered the “holy grail” product for hydration when it comes to skincare, and Nicolas Travis, founder of Singaporean brands Allies of Skin and PSA, shares a simple hack for getting the most out of it.
“Applying products to damp skin is an easy way to boost the efficacy of all of your skincare, especially your hydration products. When the skin is damp, products penetrate better — this is especially important before using hyaluronic acid-based products.
Travis continues: “Hyaluronic acid is a moisture magnet, not a hydrator. So, it pulls moisture from your skin and the environment, so applying it to dry skin can make your skin feel even more dry. When you apply it to damp skin, you are giving the serum a moisture reservoir to draw from. I like using a face mist before the application of serums and then misting again before applying my moisturiser to ensure that things work optimally.”
Layering doesn’t always work
This said, Brian Oh, founder of South Korean skincare brand VENN, points out that layering multiple products generally, particularly actives, “doesn’t always mean that you’ll increase the benefits to the skin.
“Chances are, you’re increasing the likelihood of the different actives cancelling each other out and the penetration.” Not to mention the damage you could be doing to your skin barrier.
“It’s often better for your skin to cut back, and use products which are carefully formulated so that different actives work in synergy to maximize their benefits. Streamlining your skincare isn’t only practical, but could actually be better for your skin.”
Expensive doesn’t always equal better
Be savvier with your skincare splurges —not everything going viral on TikTok is worth your cash. “There is a common misconception that the more you spend on a skincare product, the better it is for your skin, the concept that ‘you get what you pay for,’” says Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist at 55 Harley Street â£and author of The Skincare Bible. “As a consumer it can be hard not to get taken in by exotic sounding ingredients, beautiful packaging and alluring scents — often what you pay for isn’t simply about the product itself but how it invokes all of your senses - it’s smell, how it feels against your skin, how attractive it looks on your ‘shelfie.’
“As a general rule though, the more you spend on a skincare product, the more likely it is a reflection of branding, marketing and packaging (or possibly even transport of unusual ingredients) and not necessarily a sign of how effective it is. Often one cosmetic formation lab may source exactly the same ingredients for both a budget and luxury product. What you end up paying is simply a “mark-up” on this.” And she points to a recent study published in the journal Dermatitis comparing the most expensive products with the least at a major US retailer, which found that the former contained more allergy causing ingredients (known as allergens), like fragrances, preservatives, botanicals and emulsifiers than the latter.
The bottom line is, “a higher cost does not necessarily translate into a better product, particularly for those with sensitive skin,” says Mahto. So always do some research before parting with your hard earned cash.
Timing is key (and will help you stick to a routine)
No-nonsense skincare expert Dija Ayodele, author of Black Skin, says she can’t stress enough the importance of sticking to “the basics.” “Cleanse properly, get good sleep, less stress, eat a balanced diet, use skincare products that are appropriate for your skin type, use SPF, protect the skin barrier, include a retinoid, and consult a professional for any major skin concerns.”
But she adds that when you do your skincare routine matters, too, and advises getting stuck in as soon as you get home. “Do your evening skincare as soon as you get home. In my experience people who do their skincare just before they go to bed when they are already very tired either do a bad job of it or don’t do it at all — both of which just store up problems like breakouts and dull skin for the future.”
Silver is your new best friend
Celebrity facialist Nichola Joss (@nicholajoss) swears by a secret weapon ingredient for skin hygiene that you’ve probably never heard of. “I have used colloidal silver as a general anti-bacterial spritz for years. I always have it in my travel bag when flying and over the last two years I have used it daily on my face and hands, especially if I’m wearing a mask.” You can pick it up in most health shops.
“It’s a great antimicrobial agent which is effective at inhibiting bacteria. Silver has been used for healing purposes for centuries and studies have shown that it can help to deter bacteria, while also preventing growth of mould and fungi. It’s also a great anti-inflammatory, and bacteria can leave the skin vulnerable to infection which can result in inflammation.
“It’s gentle on the skin, effective and safe for redness, rosacea and sensitivity,” Joss adds.
Breathe your way to better skin (yes, really)
Annee de Mamiel, founder de Mamiel skincare, takes a holistic approach to skincare and is evangelical about the power of deep breathing, which she explains reduces the body’s stress response. “Chronic stress activates the sympathetic nervous system, this sets off a chain of events, including surges in stress hormones such as cortisol and the subsequent breakdown of tissues including collagen, inflammation and oxidation. Over time, this can make the skin look older, produce more sebum, and leave it oily and dehydrated,” she says.
“Try mindfully inhaling and exhaling to activate the parasympathetic nervous. The body then releases chemicals and brain signals that relieve tension in your muscles, slow down your organs, and increase blood flow to your brain, resulting in increased circulation and lymphatic drainage and invigorated cells, which in turn minimises the impact of stress on the skin.”
