My first foray into the world of spiced yogurts took place inside the local biryani joint just a few miles north of my Maryland hometown. Alongside heaping plates of spiced rice — filled with generous chunks of tender mutton and buttery marrow and slivers of fried golden onions — were bowls of a humble condiment. It’s unassuming at first due to its sheer simplicity. But after indulging in a few spoonfuls, my palate begged to differ, craving more in between bites of curried rice and meat.
I’m talking about raita, a South Asian staple that’s part sauce, side dish, dip and marinade. It features a plain yogurt (also known as dahi) base that’s mixed with a medley of spices, herbs and raw, chopped vegetables. Although the concept of flavored yogurts has existed for millennia across the diaspora, raita is believed to have first appeared in print around the 19th century. Its name is a portmanteau of two Sanskrit words: rajika (meaning black mustard seeds) and tiktaka (meaning sharp or pungent). Historical archives suggest that the earliest iteration of raita can be traced back to Ayurveda, a 5000-year-old holistic medical system with roots in the Indian subcontinent, as yogurt was revered for supporting digestion and immunity, while spices also helped boost overall health.
