I’ve always been a fan of this particular butter. It’s simple to make, keeps in the fridge for ages, and has so, so much flavour. Sometimes I just spread it on hot toast, or stir it through freshly cooked spaghetti, but it’s completely irresistible if you pair it with a good roast chicken. The anchovies (I like fish4ever) work beautifully here, and are far from fishy. Rather, they develop a deep savoury rich depth which works so nicely with the chilli, garlic and rosemary. At this time of year, new potatoes are just the thing, but later on you could use larger white potatoes and the dish would be equally delicious.
Serves 4
free-range chicken 1 large, about 1.5-2kg
butter 75g, softened
salted anchovy fillets in oil 8-10, roughly chopped
dried chilli flakes 1 tsp (or less if you prefer)
rosemary 6-8 sprigs, leaves of 2 sprigs stripped and chopped
garlic 2-3 cloves, grated
new potatoes 1.5kg, scrubbed
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat your oven to 200C fan/gas mark 7.
An hour or so before you are ready to cook, take the chicken from the fridge and let it come up to room temperature. Loosen the chicken breast skin a little, easing it away from the flesh with your fingers. Place the butter in a bowl and add the chopped anchovies, chilli flakes, the chopped rosemary leaves, garlic and plenty of salt and pepper. Use a fork to mix everything together. Carefully work this herby butter under the breast skin, being careful not to tear the skin as you ease the butter in. Spread any remaining butter all over the surface of the chicken. Season the bird with a little more salt and pepper and pop it into a large roasting dish (big enough to also fit your potatoes in), and place it in the middle of the hot oven to roast for about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, cut any large potatoes in half or quarters; you can leave any small ones whole. Place them in a pan of salted water and bring them to the boil. Simmer for 5 minutes then drain the potatoes. After the chicken has had its initial 20-minute sizzle, carefully take the dish out the oven and baste the bird with the buttery juices. Scatter the parboiled potatoes around the bird, turn them through the anchovy butter and season them lightly with salt and pepper. Tuck in the remaining rosemary sprigs and return the dish to the oven. Turn the heat down to 180C fan/gas mark 6 and roast for a further 45-50 minutes, turning the potatoes once or twice.
To check if the chicken is cooked, slide the tray to the front of the oven and pull at one of the legs – it should come away easily from the bird. Or use a digital probe thermometer in the thickest part (inside of the thigh, next to the body) to check the core temperature has reached 72C. Remove from the oven once cooked.
Let the chicken rest somewhere warm for 15-20 minutes before carving and serving with the potatoes and a crisp dressed green salad.
Gill Meller is a food writer and chef
