Georgia wakes to noise and colour in Didi Chailuri each spring. For one day, masked performers called berikas run down from the hills and fill the streets of this Kakheti village. They shout, crack whips and smear mud, then knock on gates to collect bread, wine and sweets. The ritual is called Berikaoba, an ancient fertility festival that likely predates Christianity.
Nika Saginashvili has worn the mask for 16 years. He says a berika must keep running, whatever the weather, but never frighten children. The custom faded in Soviet times. It was revived by local teacher Eka Veshapidze, who organised neighbours and drew young people back in. By evening, the village shares kada, pelamushi and chidaoba wrestling, until calm returns.
