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The Independent UK
The Independent UK
Lifestyle
Lara Owen

Futuristic fashion or alien invasion? Prada presents weirdly wonderful new collection

AP

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Eric Garcia

Eric Garcia

Washington Bureau Chief

Ground control to Miuccia Prada: the Italian label’s latest collection has given a futuristic space age spin to traditional fashion.

Prada’s spring/summer 2025 womenswear collection had a star-studded front row, including actor Carey Mulligan, TikTok creator Dixie D’Amelio and the K-Pop boy band Enhypen – who are ambassadors of the label.

Miuccia Prada – the brand’s creative director, who has headed the label for 46 years – is known for her ability to prophesise the future of fashion, launching outlandish, seismic-force trends that ripple through the industry with lasting effects.

This collection was certainly no different. Together with her co-creative director, Raf Simons (who joined Prada in 2020), the duo married nostalgic workwear with sharp metallics and dynamic silhouettes – mixing the past and future into one.

Sixties A-line overcoats and Eighties pussy-bow blouses were paired with avant-garde alien headwear and silver studded skirts.

The collection featured metal spoons fashioned into tops paired with tailored wool coats, while suit trousers were tucked into patent orange wellington-like boots.

There was a disconcerting dystopian feel to the collection, as the minimal workwear presented was not polished, but rather scruffy, with upturned collars and crumpled trench coats. It’s perhaps a commentary on the end of the office – with remote working and digital drifting being today’s preference.

Alongside the alien sunglasses and hole-embellished bucket hats, the collection had a sense of ethereality – adding a more delicate otherworldly character.

Leggings and bodysuits were swathed in sheer skirts and gowns, providing a gossamer fineness that lifted the ensembles, allowing them to simply drift down the runway.

Despite the forward-thinking take, Miuccia Prada revived some of the label’s classics, including their 1996 flat leather sandals and the platform Oxfords from 2011. By pairing these with circular cut, transparent leather garments, Prada blurred the lines between past and present design.

The season captured a unique balance between reality and fantasy, playing with contrasts in both form and function, as Prada and Simons offered yet another fresh take on the label’s enduring legacy.

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