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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
World
Amy Hawkins in Haikou

‘Fruit of the devil’: Hainan’s betel nut sellers suffer from stuttering economy

Farmers sort betel nuts at a market
Farmers sort betel nuts at a market in Haikou, China.
More than 2.3 million people are involved in the betel nut industry, according to state media.
Photograph: VCG/Getty Images

Many cities across southern China are known for the art of relaxing. Chengdu in Sichuan province is the tea house capital. Guangzhou is the birthplace of dim sum, a time to share steamed dumplings and chew the fat with friends. And in Haikou, the capital of Hainan province, people have been chewing the betel nut for centuries.

You don’t have to walk far in Haikou to find a vendor. The small, hard, green fruits are sold in little piles alongside fresh coconuts and bottled water at pretty much any convenience store, for about five yuan (£0.52) a piece. Some vendors, mostly women, sit by the side of the road to dish out betel nuts to passing drivers on mopeds, nearly all of them men.

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