From wild seas and paradise beaches to selkie sightings and rutting stags, the Scottish islands are a must-visit destination this autumn. The midnight sun of summer has been replaced by mist and mellow fruitfulness, the holiday crowds have all gone home, and there’s nothing standing between you, the tranquillity of the scenery and a wee dram of whisky. Read on to discover what’s awaiting this autumn …
From wildlife to adventure
The wild open landscape of the Scottish islands is perfect for any number of adventures, from cycling on Cumbrae, known as the Island of a Thousand Bicycles, to the quiet roads of the Hebridean Way, and hill walking on Mull.
Hikers will be delighted with CowalFest 2023, a five-day family friendly walking festival that showcases the beautiful autumnal scenery and heritage of the spectacular island-like Cowal peninsula in Argyll & The Isles, from 12-16 October.
For water sport enthusiasts in the know, the Scottish islands have long been a destination of choice, with surfing increasingly popular. In October, Tiree plays host to the Tiree Wave Classic, where pros, masters, amateurs and kids can all compete to win on the waves. The Isle of Lewis, with its beautiful white sandy “Caribbean” beaches and great swell, is another must-visit destination for surfers.
As autumn rolls in, the wild seas of the Scottish islands take on dramatic appeal, best experienced by hiking along the coastline, where you can stop to wave-watch. Notable stretches include journeying west from Silwick to Westerwick in Shetland, which has some of the most stunning cliff scenery in the UK. Marwick Head in Orkney is equally appealing, while a hike to Carsaig arches on the Isle of Mull offers spectacular coastline views.
History
The Scottish islands spoil history fans with choice. In Orkney, discover 15 neolithic chambered tombs on the isle of Rousay, nicknamed the “Egypt of the north” for its trove of archaeological treasures. And on Arran, you can hear fascinating stories of past-rulers of the island at the castles of Brodick, Lochranza and Kildonan.
There’s evidence of more than 1,000 years of settlement at the fascinating Clickimin Broch in Shetland. Amateur archaeologists will have fun trying to piece together the history of the structures around the lough-side stone-built tower.
Scapa Flow, in Orkney, has been used as a harbour since Viking times, but in the 20th century some of the most significant naval action of the second world war began here. Now, accompanied by local expert guides, divers can visit many of the wrecks, including warships of the German High Seas Fleet. On the island of Hoy, visit the refurbished Scapa Flow Museum, where you can see naval artefacts up close.
Further west, head to the idyllic island of Colonsay and cross the tidal sands to explore the beautiful Oronsay Priory. Founded by the Augustinians in the early 14th century, it has some fascinating tombs and carved stone effigies of chieftains, as well as one of the finest Celtic crosses in Scotland.
Food and drink
From oysters to mushrooms and even wild brambles, the Scottish islands offer a bounty of delicious produce come autumn. Try scallops on Barra, blueshell mussels in Shetland, or salmon on Uist. Or get yourself to Colonsay, famous for being a foodie heaven, with the Colonsay food & drink festival taking place from 7-10 October. Along with gin and whisky tasting, foraging and cooking classes, the festival also puts on guided walks and children’s activities to showcase the island’s wildlife and natural beauty.
Food fans heading to Shetland won’t miss out this October as the Taste of Shetland festival gets under way, showcasing the fantastic locally produced food and drink the islands have to offer.
If you’re lucky enough to visit the Isle of Harris this autumn, you can be among the first in the world to try the island’s just-launched single malt, the Hearach. Local distillers have created a complex Outer Hebridean spirit, in a real community effort. For craft beer lovers, there’s a tap room at the Loomshed Brewery in Tarbert.
Music
Music has always played an integral part of island life, and there are thriving music scenes to be found in particular in Shetland. Join the locals at the Lounge Bar, the Dowry and Da Wheel in Lerwick and enjoy an evening of traditional music, from jam sessions to performances by local talents.
The nights may be cutting in, but the festivities continue – many of them moving indoors to create a more intimate experience. Visitors to the Isles of Skye and Raasay from 17-25 November can really immerse themselves in local culture at the 2023 Small Halls festival, which brings big music to small halls around the islands with an “everyone is welcome” ethos. Also on Skye is the Sabhal Mòr Ostaig Gaelic college, where you can experience music workshops and concerts.
While many couldn’t organise a knees-up in a brewery, every year the inhabitants of the island of Islay put on a jazz festival in a whisky distillery. Other venues for local, virtuoso performances include a Gaelic college, a bird sanctuary and several village halls. Past draws have included Laura Macdonald, Colin Steele and Fergus McCreadie.
Wildlife and nature
Even though many of the Scottish islands may not have an abundant human population, this is a boon for the wildlife – and a great reason to visit for nature lovers.
Head to the Isle of Jura, which is home to about 6,000 red deer. Come autumn, the biggest and strongest males battle for mating supremacy. This is one of the most exciting times to visit. Keep your eyes peeled for golden eagles, or watch wild goats grazing on seaweed on the remote beaches of the west coast.
For the ultimate autumn wildlife experience, visit the Outer Hebrides. Take a walk along its wild coast to spot grey seal pups, otters and minke whales on the Hebridean Whale Trail, or follow the Bird of Prey Trail with a local wildlife expert on North Uist to look out for eagles, hen harriers and short-eared owl, as well as rare autumn migrants.
If you’d prefer to stay on dry land, then Kylerhea on the Isle of Skye is one of the best places in Britain to spot otters and other aquatic mammals.
And don’t miss Orkney, home to about 15% of Scotland’s seal population – known as “selkies”. Snap up local naturalist Tim Dean’s guide to clue up before your trip, but the South Ronaldsay East Coast walk gives you the best chance to spot them.
If you like otters – and let’s face it, who doesn’t – Shetland has the highest density of Eurasian river otters in Europe. If that’s not enough to tempt you, an autumn trip to Shetland also allows for some orca spotting.
Autumn is the perfect season to discover the unique spirit of Scotland’s Highlands and islands. Start planning your trip at discoverhighlandsandislands.scot
