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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Jarred McGinnis

From cool Marseille to a photo-feast in Arles – an art trail through Provence

A modern building comprising cubes and circles reflected on a lake that has a red sculpture in it
Vasarely Foundation in Aix-en-Provence. Photograph: Hemis/Alamy

My wife and I moved from London to Marseille a little over five years ago when our British passports still conferred “right to reside” in France. That first winter on the beach, in short sleeves, as our daughters played in the topaz-coloured Mediterranean and the sun set across an ever-clear blue sky, I understood why this part of southern France has always been popular with artists.

I was recently speaking about this with the painter Fanny Nushka and her sailor husband, Benoît Bouchet, on the terrace of Café la Muse in Marseille’s “coolest” neighbourhood. She said: “It took a long time to go back to blue. It’s like being in Paris and painting the Eiffel Tower. It’s dangerous to paint the Calanques [limestone coves] as an artist from here.”

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