Gram flour (AKA chickpea flour or besan) is the unsung hero of many Indian dishes. It has an earthy, nutty flavour that takes me right back to my mum’s veranda in West Bengal. This thali, however, is Punjabi-inspired, and showcases some of gram flour’s guises: it is used twice in the kadhi pakora recipe – both in the yoghurty curry and in the fritters – and it also makes appearances in missi roti, a regional flatbread, and ladoo, a spiced sweet treat served at celebrations.