Sean shouted from behind the board that it was time to stand.
I popped up.
And somehow stayed up.
The wave carried me all the way to shore and I remember laughing the entire way in. Part adrenaline, part disbelief, part pure joy.
Surfing had quietly been sitting on my mental bucket list for years. I had just never quite found the moment. Or the courage to actually try it.
That moment eventually arrived in the Seychelles.
Getting there turned out to be part of the reset. We flew with Qatar Airways, and somewhere between a proper night’s sleep at 35,000 feet and a meal that felt more like dinner than plane food, the trip had already started to feel different. By the time we landed in the Seychelles it felt like we’d arrived rested rather than wrung out from the journey.
Flying into Mahé is the kind of landing that makes you press your face to the plane window. Lush green mountains rising out of the ocean, cottages tucked into the hillsides and water so bright it almost does not look real. The runway sits right beside the sea, so it feels like the plane might land on the water itself.
We did not stay long though. Our first stop was Four Seasons Resort Seychelles at Desroches Island, reached by a small domestic flight about forty minutes out across the Indian Ocean.
Leaving Mahé behind and flying out over open water felt like heading somewhere completely different.
Desroches appears slowly from the air, a thin ring of sand surrounded by impossibly clear water. The plane lands on a private runway in the middle of the island where the resort team are waiting with a cheerful welcome home.
Within minutes the outside world feels a long way away.
The island was originally a coconut plantation and still partially operates as one today, which gives the place a quiet sense of history rather than feeling newly built.
Guests move around mostly by bicycle or electric buggy and the pace immediately slows. Island time quickly becomes a thing. You stop checking the time and just let the day carry you where it wants to go. Sandy paths wind through the palms and every now and then the ocean flashes into view between the trees.
Our ocean view villa sat just steps from the sand, with a private pool, outdoor shower and a wooden spiral staircase leading to a second level terrace where we spent evenings stargazing or hiding from the afternoon heat.
And of course those famously comfortable Four Seasons beds. The sort that make you briefly question whether dinner is really necessary.
What really makes Desroches special is the space.
You can cycle for ten minutes and suddenly feel like you have discovered your own stretch of beach.
Further inland there is a tortoise sanctuary that is home to around 170 giant tortoises. Some of them have stories that stretch far beyond our own time here, tied to the island long before the resort arrived. Guests can visit the sanctuary to learn more about their conservation with expert guides Nazrin and Jonathan, who seem to know each tortoise like an old friend.
Life on Desroches quickly settles into its own rhythm.
Mornings began with slow bike rides to breakfast, cycling along sandy paths with glimpses of the ocean through the trees. Breakfast was usually at Claudine, the resort’s relaxed beachside restaurant, where the team somehow managed to remember names and ask about the day ahead.
Evenings often meant chasing the last of the sun back towards Madam Zaab beach. Hammocks sway between the palms, cabanas dot the sand and a small food truck serves simple beach food that somehow tastes even better after a swim.
On the afternoon we visited we had the entire beach to ourselves.
Even here, miles from the main resort buildings, the same attention to detail quietly shows up. Fresh towels neatly stacked, cold drinking water ready to grab and discreet bathroom facilities tucked away behind the palms.
Wellness takes on some unusual settings on Desroches too. The island’s yoga platform overlooks the ocean on one side and the private runway on the other. Guests can even take part in yoga sessions on the runway itself, which is not something you see every day.
But while plenty of guests come here to switch off completely, I had arrived chasing something a little more adrenaline filled.
Surfing.
The island works with Tropicsurf, and instructors Sean and Lainey run personalised lessons from the beach.
Sean began the lesson on land demonstrating the slightly ridiculous sounding frog to chicken move designed to help you pop up onto the board at just the right moment.
On the sand it felt manageable.
In the water I was not so sure.
But the nerves disappeared surprisingly quickly once we paddled out. If you are going to try surfing for the first time anywhere, it might as well be here. Warm water, soft powdery sand and barely another person around.
Sean guided the board into my first wave and told me when to stand.
I popped up.
And somehow stayed up.
The wave carried me all the way to shore and I remember laughing the entire way in.
I had expected to fall repeatedly. Instead I rode the very first wave.
Somewhere between the surf lesson, the morning bike rides and those slow sunsets at Madam Zaab beach I realised I had arrived chasing adrenaline but found something else too.
Peace.
The sort my body and mind probably crave far more often than I care to admit.
Eventually it was time to head back to Mahé, where the mountains rise sharply from the ocean.
Our next stop was Four Seasons Resort Seychelles, perched high above Petite Anse beach on the island’s southwest coast.
The energy shifted as we arrived. As we checked in we were handed a coconut decorated with a vibrant hibiscus flower and standing there surrounded by dramatic cliffs it was clear we had arrived somewhere special.
Cycling here would be tricky. Instead the private villas are tucked into the mountainside and connected by winding paths and golf carts.
Our Hilltop Ocean View Villa sat high above Petite Anse with sweeping views across the bay, an expansive private deck, sun loungers and a pool that was actually big enough for a proper swim.
No tiny plunge pools here.
There is something really special about being tucked into the hillside. It feels nurturing somehow. Cosy, private and quietly special.
Inside the room felt instantly calming. Light, open and crisp, with uninterrupted views stretching across the ocean and the curve of the beach below.
The bathroom was a standout too, with a bathtub in front of floor to ceiling windows overlooking the sea.
Small touches quickly became part of the daily routine. Homemade coconut crisps appeared in the room, bath salts were replenished each day and the oversized robes and fluffy towels made it very easy to slow down for an evening soak.
Most mornings began the same way. A quiet dip in the pool before the day properly started, the ocean stretching out below and the island slowly waking up around us.
Breakfast was usually taken at Zez, the resort’s hillside restaurant, which feels more like a sanctuary than a dining room. The wake up to wellness menu leaned into lighter options like moringa pancakes and a green superfood omelette packed with avocado, spinach and asparagus.
If you were feeling slightly more indulgent there was always the Benedict croissant with poached eggs, hollandaise and black truffle.
Morning infused waters prepared by Dr Anoop were a thoughtful touch.
Le Syel Spa sits at the highest point of the hillside, a place for a little indulgence, peace and recovery.
A wellness consultation with Dr Anoop, the resort’s resident Ayurvedic doctor and spa director, turned out to be one of the more unexpected highlights.
I arrived slightly apprehensive, unsure whether I was about to receive a gentle telling off for occasionally eating cake for breakfast.
It quickly became clear that Dr Anoop was interested in something much deeper.
By the end of the hour long consultation I left feeling surprisingly seen. Yes there were wellness recommendations, but more than anything it was an insight into personality, balance and a few practical and spiritual ideas to take away long after the trip ended.
The consultation was followed by a dreamy sixty minute massage and I practically floated back down the hillside to my villa.
I carried his words with me long after the trip ended. They hit deeper than I expected, but it was exactly the kind of guidance I did not even realise I needed.
The pace here feels slightly louder than Desroches but quiet corners are still easy to find. Soft beats drift across the pool during the day and the waves rolling onto Petite Anse feel a little more energetic, yet still gentle enough to swim in or grab a boogie board.
The ocean plays a big role in life here. Kayaking, snorkelling, paddleboarding and marine conservation programmes offer plenty of ways to spend more time in the water.
By the time we reached Mahé the surf bug had well and truly taken hold. Luckily the Tropicsurf team also operate from the resort, offering guided sessions along the island’s coastline.
Surfing on Mahé is a contrast to Desroches. The waves are a little more energetic and sessions often involve heading out by boat to reach the best breaks along the coastline.
Beyond the resort, Mahé has its own rhythm. Local artists, quaint independent shops and small artisan cafés sit alongside colourful markets and everyday island life.
One of the culinary highlights came on our final evening at the Steak Shack, the resort’s beachside island grill. Fire torches lined the sand, picnic style benches were dressed with colourful tropical tablecloths and cocktails appeared just as the sun began to dip behind the hills.
It felt relaxed and quietly celebratory.
Somewhere between the waves, the quiet mornings and Dr Anoop’s words, I realised the best resolution I could have made this year was a simple one.
Say yes to the things that make you feel alive. Even if that starts with a slightly wobbly surfboard.
Fact box
FlightsLauren travelled to the Seychelles with Qatar Airways, flying from Edinburgh to Mahé via Doha. Business class cabins offer fully flat beds, dine-on-demand menus and access to the airline’s lounges at Hamad International Airport in Doha.
Where to stay
Four Seasons Resort Seychelles at Desroches Island sits on a private coral island reached by a 40-minute domestic flight from Mahé. Villas feature private pools and direct access to miles of white sand beaches. Villas from approximately £1,450 per night.
On the main island, Four Seasons Resort Seychelles is tucked into the hillside above Petite Anse beach, with expansive ocean-view villas and a hilltop spa overlooking the Indian Ocean. Villas from approximately £1,150 per night.
What to do
Learn to surf with Tropicsurf, which runs guided surf experiences at both resorts. On Desroches, cycle around the island, snorkel the house reef, visit the giant tortoise sanctuary or join sunrise yoga overlooking the runway and ocean.
On Mahé, book a wellness consultation at Le Syel Spa with the resort’s resident Ayurvedic doctor, kayak or paddleboard along Petite Anse beach, or explore Mahé’s markets, artisan cafés and independent galleries.
