I’ve been in Finland barely 24 hours and I’m lying back, eyes closed, floating in beautifully clear water and feeling quite possibly the most relaxed I’ve ever been. No, I’m not in one of the nation’s world renowned saunas lauded for their restorative powers; I’m actually drifting in -1C sea water. Helsinki is around 20 miles from me by land, while the Estonian capital Tallinn is roughly 50 miles across the (mostly frozen) Baltic Sea.
The fact that I’m in a deeply relaxed, almost meditative, state and not suffering with early stage hypothermia is because I’m fully kitted out in a bright orange neoprene survival suit. Used by the crew on ships and fishing boats in case of emergency at sea, these immersion suits are designed to maintain the wearer's body temperature and keep them buoyant for up to six hours in cold water.
As I bob around the outside temperature is hovering around -10C (I’m told this is positively balmy compared to the previous week), but I’m cosy inside my suit and dangerously close to dozing off. Our guide Maelys, who works for Redrib Experience – the company that is taking me on this snowy adventure – laughs and says she’s known someone fall asleep for 20 minutes while drifting in the sea.
Read more: Doctors are now ‘prescribing’ Sweden – this is why I agree
Finland is a wildly popular winter destination among British travellers, but the vast majority whiz through Helsinki on their way up to Lapland. The opening of Rovaniemi airport has left travellers even less likely to visit the capital as they can now fly direct to the north and bypass Helsinki altogether.
While Lapland is magical, the south of the country offers its own charm. Here in Helsinki you might not find fluffy huskies and the country’s famous reindeer (and you’re unlikely to encounter Santa), but you will discover a snowy wonderland.
Helsinki does hunkering down well. You could very easily spend a few days cosying up in cafes, watching films in the warm glow of the city’s cinemas or reading a book at the wonderfully welcoming public library (Oodi is my favourite place in the city itself). But in a country that embraces the outdoors no matter the season, it would be wrong not to wrap up and enjoy the wintry playground on your doorstep.
While peeling off my survival suit, I watch as a James Bond-esque hovercraft arrives in a slick swish of snow, before scooping up our group and carrying us away from the mainland out into the frozen expanse of the Baltic Sea. We stop and look out into the white nothingness, a smattering of islands just visible. The sea below is frozen solid and the vast white landscape largely inhabited – come winter, the many hundreds of islands in the Helsinki archipelago are home to just 40 or so hardy souls. As we glide on to the island of Östholmen, we glance smoke rising from a small open-sided hut where a grinning Finn named Samuli greets us. We gather around a fire and eat a simple meal of homemade fish soup (pea soup for vegetarians) and lingonberry juice followed by steaming hot coffee and cookies.
Read more: We need more women in adventure travel – this expedition is a start
As we eat, one of the Americans in our small group enthusiastically proclaims that this is the best meal he’s had on his entire 10-day holiday in Finland, including a trip through Lapland and eating out at some of the highest-rated restaurants in Helsinki.
I’ve heard stories about the legendary “ice man” who knows how to speak with the ice, which fills me with visions of a wild, rugged beast of a human. In fact, when I get back to land and head to Joensuun Tila in Sipoo, east of Helsinki, I’m greeted by the friendly smile of Tuomas who shortly after meeting me has popped some hand warmers into my gloves and sent me off on a push sled to explore the area.
As I leave, a group of giggling teenagers are coming back from their own sledding adventures and set to work to clear the ice at that's been covered in a fresh layer of snow. Tuomas holds skating sessions at this “rink” – which is actually a meadow that’s been covered with water rather than a frozen lake – but for a more daring adventure, he’ll organise tour skating on the ‘wild ice’ of the Baltic Sea. I learn that Tuomas can indeed talk with the ice – he’s known to carefully listen to the sounds coming from the frozen water to understand how thick the ice is, and hence how safe it is to skate on.
A week later as I’m whizzing past the village of Gumbostrand on a snowmobile with Burn Out City tours, my guide Kenneth points to the icy pool where I’d floated in my immersion suit. “That’s where people from the village do their cold plunge after sauna,” he informs me. I raise an eyebrow – while I was more than happy to bob around the cold water in a cosy neoprene suit, there’s no chance I’d swim without it.
Read more: How a trip to ‘Moomin island’ made me rethink summers in the Med
Yet, again and again Helsinki residents have waxed lyrical to me about the amazing health benefits of a cold plunge. I nod vaguely over a steaming cup of chamomile tea as my friend Camilla tells me about morning swims and then laugh at dinner later when another local Leena insists that you cannot leave Helsinki without a sauna and ice bath. As much as I love the snowy outdoors, stripping down and plunging into icy water sounds ludicrous to me.
So how is it on my final night in the city I find myself toddling barefoot through the snow towards a sea water pool? Long icicles hang around the edges and chunks of ice drift through the 1C water. It’s 8pm and dark at the Allas baths in Helsinki Harbour, but nearly two weeks in Finland and I’ve been persuaded. One deep breath and I walk determinedly down the steps; the water hits in a sharp icy blast and I last less than five seconds before retreating into the night air. I take a moment to let the promised endorphins rush through my body then ease myself into the heated swimming pool and, just like I started my trip, I finish by drifting blissfully through Helsinki’s fresh winter air.
When to go
To experience Helsinki and its surrounds in all their snowy glory, aim for January or February. Most southern Finns will warn against November when the days are getting shorter, darkness feels oppressive and the snow is yet to fall. Travelling in December you still risk no snow, but by January there’s a very high chance that you’ll be immersed in a winter wonderland with lots of the white stuff. The same goes for February and, as a plus, days are even longer. You’ll get daylight from roughly 8am to 5pm which is a lot longer than up north in Lapland.
And yes it is cold. Temperatures can dip as low as -20C, but this is still no reason to stay indoors. It’s worth investing in decent snow gear – plenty of layers as well as a good hat, gloves and waterproof boots – which will allow you to spend hours outdoors and be comfortable.
How to get there
Airlines including Finnair and Ryanair fly direct from the UK. Flight time is around 2 hours 45 minutes. From Helsinki airport, it’s an easy train ride into the city, taking around 45 minutes, or a 30-minute cab ride. Once in Helsinki, almost everything you’ll want to see in the city centre is walkable, but there’s also a very efficient and easy-to-use tram system. For both train and tram tickets download the HSL app.
Where to stay
Part of the appeal of exploring south Finland is that you can stay in Helsinki where there are some excellent hotels, not to mention truly great dining options. While the Finnish capital is not known as a city for budget travellers, there are a number of very reasonably priced places to stay and some luxury options that are remarkably good value. Below are my recommendations for all budgets.
Hotel Hobo
My top choice for accommodation in Helsinki, Hobo is fun, friendly, centrally located and offers an excellent breakfast. Rather amazingly, you can get a double room for under £100 a night by booking the Hobo Sleeper option. Despite these being the “budget” rooms, they’re surprisingly spacious with high ceilings, plenty of light, hanging and storage space, and a decent-sized bathroom.
Hotel Helka
Another great budget option, Helka doesn’t have quite as much character as Hobo, but it’s clean, comfortable and a 10-15 minute walk to the train station. Depending on the season, it’s possible to get a single room for under £100 and a double for not much more, with a big buffet breakfast included.
NH Collection Helsinki Grand Hansa
Sleek Scandi style characterises the rooms at this NH Hotels property, which sits in the centre of Helsinki’s shopping district just a few minutes walk from the train station. This hotel stands out for its Usva by Terhen spa where you can enjoy traditional Finnish sauna treatments. Rooms start at around £135.
Hotel Kamp
Finland's first five-star hotel, Hotel Kamp oozes 19th-century elegance with a sweeping staircase, beautiful restaurant and bundles of history. It’s currently undergoing renovation, due to be completed in October this year, but most of the hotel is open (although you will have to wait until autumn to use the new spa and swimming pool). At present you can stay in one of the entry-level rooms for a little over £300 a night, which is pretty good value considering this is an incredibly luxe hotel.
Where to eat
Finland tends to eat according to season, and as a result Helsinki's food scene revolves around seasonal produce and much is locally sourced. As expected, there are plenty of fish-based dishes, and in the winter you’ll find lots of fermented, pickled and preserved foods.
Skörd follows this ethos to the letter, using only ingredients from Finland, with a seven-course menu accompanied by domestic berry wines, beers, ciders, and homemade berry liqueurs. For an exquisite plant-based menu in a relaxed atmosphere book a table at Magu, while Yes Yes Yes serves excellent vegetarian food. My favourite cafe in the city is the cosy family-run Rakastan inspired by Grandma Meri’s recipes from Karelia, but for a slightly different vibe head to Cafe Ekburg; this is classic Helsinki in a sleek setting close to the gorgeous esplanade.
Annabel’s trip was partly supported by Visit Finland.
What is Interrailing? Everything you need to know about passes, routes and more
New train connecting three major Scandinavian cities launching this summer from only £12 a ticket
The best affordable sleeper train journeys to take in 2026
The trip that opened Antarctica to tourists – 60 years on, was it a mistake?
What is a ‘salvaged stay’? The upcycled hotels travellers are booking in 2026
I’ve stayed in over 70 Airbnbs solo, here’s how to find the perfect stay
Why this tidal island in Northumberland is so special
I’m a hotels expert and these are the best stays for Mother’s Day
Australia’s famous wine region that has much more to offer than vineyards
