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Newcastle Herald
Newcastle Herald
National

Food Bites: Flotilla chef Leo Milan cooks his way to The Ledbury

Above, 2024 Brett Graham Scholarship recipient Leonardo Milan, third from left, with his kitchen team at TAFE NSW Hamilton. Picture by Tom Robertson Photography
Leonardo Milan's main course (veal) at the Brett Graham Scholarship final at TAFE NSW Hamilton on October 29. Picture by Tom Robertson Photography
Lara Hagan at the Brett Graham Scholarship final at TAFE NSW Hamilton on October 29. Picture by Tom Robertson Photography
Lara Hagan at the Brett Graham Scholarship final at TAFE NSW Hamilton on October 29. Picture by Tom Robertson Photography
Lachlan Dowsett at the Brett Graham Scholarship final at TAFE NSW Hamilton on October 29. Picture by Tom Robertson Photography
Lachlan Dowsett at the Brett Graham Scholarship final at TAFE NSW Hamilton on October 29. Picture by Tom Robertson Photography
The Brett Graham Scholarship final at TAFE NSW Hamilton on October 29. Picture by Tom Robertson Photography
The Brett Graham Scholarship final at TAFE NSW Hamilton on October 29. Picture by Tom Robertson Photography
The Brett Graham Scholarship final at TAFE NSW Hamilton on October 29. Picture by Tom Robertson Photography
Harrison Plant, Yasmine Kelly, Noah Adamthwaite and Sally Scarborough at TAFE NSW Hamilton on October 29. Picture by Tom Robertson Photography
Leonardo Milan's dessert at the Brett Graham Scholarship final at TAFE NSW Hamilton on October 29. Picture by Tom Robertson Photography
Head teacher of commercial cookery Mark McManus, Leonardo Milan and Hunter Culinary Association deputy chair Joey Ingram. Picture by Tom Robertson Photography
2024 Brett Graham Scholarship recipient Leonardo Milan. Picture by Tom Robertson Photography
Leonardo Milan's dessert at the Brett Graham Scholarship final at TAFE NSW Hamilton on October 29. Picture by Tom Robertson Photography
Leonardo Milan at the Brett Graham Scholarship final at TAFE NSW Hamilton on October 29. Picture by Tom Robertson Photography

Leonardo "Leo" Milan. Remember the name.

The 20-year-old recently qualified chef, who works at Newcastle's Flotilla, is the recipient of this year's Brett Graham Scholarship.

Humbug's Lachlan Dowsett was the runner-up and Circa 1876's Lara Hagan placed third.

I was asked to judge the final cook-off at TAFE NSW Hamilton last Tuesday alongside chefs Jacob Hobbs (Saint Peter) and Nicholas Hill (Porcine Bistro) and TAFE commercial cookery teacher Tracey Amos.

We all agreed that the dishes served were impressive, and the leadership qualities shown by the three finalists were perhaps even more so.

The annual Brett Graham Scholarship, a joint initiative of Hunter Culinary Association and TAFE NSW Foundation, is important on many levels. It identifies and encourages up-and-coming cheffing talent, with mentors on hand to guide them every step of the way, and inspires new chefs to aim high.

This, in turn, raises standards and benefits the industry as a whole.

And then there's the opportunity to work with one of the world's leading chefs, former Novocastrian Brett Graham, at his three-Michelin-Star restaurant The Ledbury in Notting Hill.

Jacob, who won the scholarship in 2018 when he was an 18-year-old apprentice chef at Muse Restaurant, shared numerous anecdotes about his time at The Ledbury at the cook-off, and it is obvious it made a significant impact on him both personally and as a chef.

Nicholas and Tracey also sang Brett's praises and his ongoing contribution to Newcastle's hospitality industry from afar.

Brett's success, and that of the many recipients of his scholarship, is a reminder that hospitality can be a career, not just a job. It all depends on how far you want to take it. The help is there.

Watching Tracey guide and encourage her students as they apply skills they have learned in the classroom to a fast-paced service environment was a case in point.

So, too, is the support shown by the finalists' employers. Flotilla co-owner Eduardo Molina jumped a good three-feet into the air when Milan was declared the winner.

"Leo is as passionate as young chefs can get, he's confident and has the discipline to become a great chef. This opportunity is next level for him, and we couldn't be prouder," he said.

Chefs Michael Portley (Humbug) and Joey Ingram (Circa 1876) spoke highly of Lachlan and Lara on the night and expressed pride in their achievements.

Front-of-house talent was also recognised. The Scarborough Wine Co. Front of House Scholarship was awarded to Yasmine Kelly from Yellow Billy restaurant in Pokolbin, and the Rising Star Front of House Scholarship was presented to Noah Adamthwaite from Margan Restaurant.

A shout-out must also go to Toni Foot, head teacher of hospitality, for ensuring service (conducted by TAFE students) ran smoothly on the night.

"Our teachers have prepared these students well and we are proud to see all they have achieved," said Mark McManus, head teacher of commercial cookery.

HIGH TEA FUN AT QT

QT Newcastle's high tea experience, QTea x Cakeboi, has a new menu. Executive chef Ryan Crothers has put his stamp on the savoury side of things, bringing rustic, Italian-influenced treats to the table.

I love the vibe and the service at QT Newcastle, and QTea x Cakeboi is a pleasant, relaxed way to spend a Saturday afternoon to do what I did: catch up with a friend.

Scones with jam and cream were served first (the scones were delicious, with a crunchy, lightly sugared top and melt-in-your-mouth centre) and I ordered a personal favourite, the QT Iced Tea cocktail (Ketel One Vodka, The Tea Collective's Fruits of the Forest, lemon and sugar). We then worked our way through the savoury tower: a prawn tart with creme fraiche, lemon, chives and fennel pollen; crostino bresaola with anchovy emulsion and pickled onion; pork meatball with pomodoro and truffle pecorino; suppli tomato with mozzarella and rice pomodora; and stuffed zucchini flower with mozzarella and garlic honey.

There were lots of textures and flavours to explore; some familar, some new.

We finished with some delicious Cakeboi favourites: 17 layer chocolate and hazelnut cake; calamansi tart; orange basque cheesecake; and strawberry and lime sponge cake (ask for a take-home box if you're full).

QTea x Cakeboi is on Saturdays at Jana Restaurant & Bar from noon to 3pm.

CHANGES AT MEX

3 Sicilians Ristorante is closing at MEX Mayfield on December 1. New caterers will be taking over from December 3, the club said on its website, "keeping a lot of the same menu and adding some traditional club favourites".

"There are many factors but the main thing is we are wanting to focus on our original venue at Stockton, with the club expanding operations to make the venue a main attraction on the peninsula," 3 Sicilians co-owner Joseph Amendolia said.

"These expansions will happen over time but the first part is doubling our capacity with a second independent room that will be used for dining and holding functions."

SHORT AND SWEET

Susuru Ramen & Gyoza and Binnie Beef have collaborated on a new dish for November - the Wagyu Karubi Kuppa Ramen.

Sushi Revolution Hamilton has launched new sushi "sets" - the Fuji Nigiri Set, Sakura Sushi Roll Set and Premium Sashimi Set - and they look almost too good to eat.

A Filipino-inspired cafe, Mama Ally Espresso, has opened at Speers Point.

Sapphire Indian Restaurant at Merewether recently won a TripAdvisor Travellers' Choice Award.

Hunter Street Mall is hosting a street party on Saturday from 10am to 2pm. There will be live music, fun activities for the kids and prizes to be won.

Umaya Japanese has opened at Westfield Kotara.

Blooming Garden is opening a "Premium Korean BBQ Buffet" in Maitland on Friday at the former Outback Jacks Bar & Grill. It's open seven days, 5pm to 10pm.

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