Review at a glance: ★★★★☆
Fame is a weight that warps. When in 2020 Santiago Lastra opened his restaurant Kol, it seemed a curio — Mexican, but fine-dining. No avocados, sombreros kept to a minimum. Six courses for £70. At once it went from curio to celebrity: Michelin came and left behind a star, and the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list declared it the UK’s finest. Now its menu runs to 14 or so courses, £185-a-head without the supplements. Progress and change are not always the same.
