Sitting on the edge of a trimaran, legs dangling over the side, I watch the dolphins leaping out of the water as the sun sets in the distance. I’m on a Condor Sailing Adventure experience, just off Pensacola Beach in north-west Florida.
And unlike any other boat trip I’ve ever been on, it promises no leaning or seasickness and I can testify, as someone who doesn’t have the greatest of sea legs, these claims are not exaggerated.
Even when I’m allowed to take charge of the steering, under the calm instructions of Michael “Captain” Kirk, a nickname he’s had all his life, it feels as if we are gliding through the air.
Time at the helm is all part of the fun when you’re aboard the captain’s very own “starship”, Dare II, a rare world-class, 40ft racing vessel. Only 21 of these beauties were built. To boldly go sailing in what is known as “the Ferrari of the water” is certainly one of the highlights of my trip to this lesser-known part of Florida.
When it comes to trips to the Sunshine State, the theme parks of Orlando and the Art Deco delights of Miami usually spring to mind. While the Panhandle, as it’s affectionately known, is a well established holiday destination for Americans, it is only just starting to appear on the travel radar of Brits. Drawn by its wild beauty, windswept beaches, state parks, lakes and rivers, it appeals to adventure seekers and nature lovers. It prides itself on its friendly Southern hospitality and is also home to some of the best seafood restaurants in Florida.
I jet in via a short stop-off in Atlanta and head for Panama City Beach, a resort town with 27 miles of white sandy beaches and turquoise waters of the Gulf of Mexico. After a long flight, there’s nothing better than walking into a luxury condo with a balcony overlooking crashing waves just a few feet away.
This is exactly what you get at The Calypso Resort & Towers, a gulf-front property with beachside pools. It is just a stroll from the famous Pier Park, the area’s top shopping and entertainment destination, too.
Breakfast is a big deal in the States, so my first meal out has to be just down the road at Andy’s Flour Power, an established brekkie and lunch hangout where diners are greeted personally by the chef.
Satisfy your sweet tooth with the French toast dipped in brown sugar and cinnamon butter, grilled, then topped with fresh strawberries, or an I Want It All omelette, accompanied by a breakfast martini – gin with freshly squeezed citrus juice and marmalade.
This, however, is just the beginning of the Panhandle’s culinary and drinking delights. In Panama City Beach, the fish tacos at Runaway Island restaurant and grill are the perfect beachside treat as the bell, which lets you know the sun is about to set, rings out. And if you don’t want your night to end there, visit sister club to the original location in Nashville, renowned honky-tonk venue Tootsie’s. The country music bar is the perfect place to go for live bands and a great atmosphere.
Holidays here are all about enjoying life by the water, so I book a dolphin sight-seeing sail with Paradise Adventures in St Andrew Bay.
These clever creatures seem to play at keeping us guessing as to which side of the boat they will pop up on. The captain anchors off the coast of Shell Island, an uninhabited seven-mile barrier island, for a walk around the private state park and a spot of beachcombing. I can’t resist jumping into the crystal clear waters, feeling like the most content of castaways.
I also travel to Western Lake, at Grayton Beach State Park, for a stand-up paddle boarding lesson. After a few initial wobbles, I soon get the hang of it and I’m pleased to report I remain afloat.
Coastal dune lakes like this are only found in a few places around the world and there is something quite magical about paddle boarding while looking out to sea.
A great way to get to know this whole area is on a public art bike tour of the neighbourhoods of 30A – a scenic, 19-mile road running through the beach communities along the Gulf Coast. While you’re there, check out the pristine white picket fences, pastel beach houses and perfectly manicured lawns of the area where they filmed the movie, The Truman Show.
To round it all off, I venture down to the sands at Santa Rosa for a beach bonfire with 30A Blaze.
Saving you the faff of sorting out all the stuff, they will set up a firepit, deckchairs, tables and tiki torches, as well as provide an attendant to keep the fire burning as you roast S’mores at sunset to the sound of the waves.
If you fancy a round of golf during your north-west Florida stay, book into the Sandestin Golf and Beach Resort, South Walton, which has four championship courses, holiday rental options from bayside villas to luxury hotel rooms, restaurants, bars, watersports and exciting activities such as high ropes courses, climbing and a laser maze.
Pensacola is the final stop on the tour, a city steeped in history as the first European settlement in North America. Spanish explorer Don Tristán de Luna y Arellano arrived on its shores in 1559 and five flags have flown over the city since then.
There’s a guided tour of the 19th century homes and the 1832 Old Christ Church in Pensacola village. You can also make evenings really special here with a Glow Paddle, an experience unique to this area. As you glide through the water in a transparent kayak illuminated by waterproof LED lights in darkness, you’ll see fish, stingrays, maybe even dolphins, plus it’s really cool to watch the other boats glowing neon all around you.
Florida’s Panhandle is famous for its seafood and an evening at The Grand Marlin, with its views of Santa Rosa Sound and sunsets over Pensacola Bay, is an event.
The menu is full of mouthwatering starters such as barbecue oysters, with Pepper Jack cheese, garlic and butter, and crispy lobster fingers. I go for a main of Hong Kong-style sea bass with marinated baby bok choy, sticky rice and soy sherry broth, which is outstanding.
Although seafood is the star of the show here, every restaurant has vegetarian and vegan options or is more than happy to rustle something up that’s off the menu.
In Pensacola, I get my first taste of boiled peanuts at Union Public House, quickly discovering why they are a Southern delicacy. The area’s also known for its booze-laced adult milkshakes called Bushwackers and each beachfront bar prepares the drink with a slightly different twist.
After all the fun, food and friends I made here, my favourite part had to be the sailing trip with Captain Kirk, which ended with a lovely surprise that I won’t spoil.
But I get the feeling that the secrets of the Panhandle and all this beautiful destination has to offer won’t stay hidden for long.
BOOK IT
Travel Planners offers seven nights in north-west Florida from £1,399 per person for travel on selected dates in September with Delta Air Lines flights from Heathrow or Manchester via Atlanta. Includes accommodation at Calypso Resort & Towers in Panama City Beach (3nts), Osprey Point, Sandestin Golf & Beach Resort in South Walton County (2nts) and Hampton Inn Pensacola Beach in Pensacola (2nts) plus car hire. travelplanners.co.uk
MORE INFO
visitflorida.com, visitpensacola.com, visitsouthwalton.com, visitpanamacitybeach.com
