Up Norway’s Hop on the Arctic Circle Express Train journey
(Picture: Torild Moland)For many, so-called “slow travel” has taken on a new meaning following the pandemic-imposed pause in international jet-setting that has prompted some to rethink how they get around. And with airport chaos set to disrupt holidays well into the summer, it’s no surprise that more of us are considering no-fly options.
Grown up interrailing is having a particular resurgence. “There is no better way to see Europe than by train. It has one of the most extensive and efficient rail networks in the world, and there is so much to experience if you are happy to take your time,” says Karen Edwards, author of The Responsible Traveller. “Slow travel simply means your journey is as important as the place you are travelling to — every part of the trip is to be savoured and enjoyed.”
There are, of course, plenty of ethical reasons to start travelling more responsibly, given we’re in a climate emergency. “With an estimated 100,000 flights departing every day around the world, it’s thought aviation accounts for 2.5 per cent of global carbon emissions. So if we can travel by other means, such as by train, it’s important to do so,” she adds.
Slow travel means your journey is as important as the place you are travelling to. Every part of the trip is to be savoured
When planning a flight-free trip, Catherine Livesley, founder of No Fly Travel Club, advises thinking of it as an adventure in itself rather than simply using trains as an alternative to flying. “Ask yourself: how much time do I want to spend travelling and what type of holiday do I want? Are you looking to spend a few days city hopping and stopping on route? Or would you rather travel further at the start to hike in beautiful surroundings or relax on a sunny beach? From here you can start planning your route and stopping off points.”
Don’t know where to start? We asked experts for their top flight-free travel inspo to Europe this summer.
Farm-to-fork gastronomy in Tuscany
For eco-conscious foodies, Amanda Ho, co-founder of boutique booking platform Regenerative Travel recommends a gastronomic tour of Tuscany and a stint at sustainability-focused Oasy Hotel, which sits on a 1,000-hectare nature reserve. “Take the early morning Eurostar from London to Paris and spend a day or so exploring the French capital like a local. Visit Marche des Enfants Rouges for lunch. Then take a train direct to Milan, where you can spend another day and night exploring. Finally, catch the train from Milan to Florence, then change to a regional train to Pistoia. From there you can get either the local bus or a transfer to the hotel.”
With 18 minimalist lodges surrounded by the picturesque Apennine Mountains and acres of regenerated wilderness, it’s a stunning setting in which to reconnect with nature. Guests can dine in one of three restaurants, all of which are supplied with fresh produce from the hotel’s biodynamic farm. Enjoy daily yoga classes and re-energising spa treatments after long days spent trekking, kayaking and orienteering. “On the way back, make the most of your journey by exploring other Italian cities like Florence and Siena along the way. You can take an extended route back to Paris on the train via the Italian and French Riviera and Provence.”
The Opal coast on two wheels
Cyclists should swap the crowds of the south of France for the peaceful Opal coast, suggests Cat Jones, founder of Byway Travel, a booking company that offers flight-free holidays by train, boat, bus and bike. The area is home to picturesque sandy beaches and fantastic cycle paths. “With a journey time of one and a half hours from London to Hauts-de-France, not to mention the time saved without airport security and bag check-in, northern France is the perfect option for a short trip to Europe without the hefty carbon cost of air travel,” she says. Explore the up-and-coming region for regenerative tourism and the vast dune-backed beach of Le Touquet before heading to the buzzing port city of Boulogne-sur-Mer.
Slow travel in Norway
The route from London to Norway (via Brussels and Cophenhagen) is relatively straightforward by train. Arrive in Oslo where Up Norway (upnorway.com) operates a number of slow scenic rail routes. The Arctic Circle Express Train is a 12-day journey to Bodø that takes guests across the Arctic Circle from May to September. Surrounded by deeply tranquil landscapes dotted with mountains, fjords and waterfalls, you’ll feast on local delicacies and enjoy long summer nights bathed in golden light.
Should you have more time on your hands, Up Norway has curated a four-week trip which is designed to encapsulate the Norwegian term ‘kos’ (which is essentially their version of the Danish word ‘hygge’). You’ll stay in eco-lodges run by locals and explore the Sunnmøre Alps, before heading to western Lofoten and finishing in rugged Finnmark, the northernmost reaches of the country.
Road trippin’ in France
Like the sound of vineyards, lavender fields and lake dips? Hire a car and spend a few weeks circumnavigating France, Edwards suggests. “Starting in Paris, head west to Giverny and spend a day at Monet’s famous lily pond, before heading south to the Loire Valley to sample France’s finest wines. Back west, Mont Saint-Michel is a spectacular tidal island and home to the Abbaye du Mont Saint-Michel. And further south are beautiful Bordeaux and Saint-Émilion, where rich, locally-grown red flows in abundance.”
Continue on to Provence in the middle of the country where lavender fields and river valleys wind through towns with cobbled streets and buzzing central squares. “On the way back north, Lake Annecy is a must-do for a few days. In the summer, you can spend hours lazing around the lake and sipping on apple spritzers in one of the many restaurants and bars. The hilly roads surrounding the region are great for bikers and hikers too.”
Island hopping on The Wadden Islands
For a lesser-known beach destination, Byway Travel’s Jones recommends the Netherlands’ Wadden Islands, a peaceful archipelago off the Dutch coast. “After a direct train from London to Rotterdam, you’ll make your way to Texel, the largest of the islands. By ferry or rental boat, hop between islands and explore by bike to uncover quiet beaches teeming with wildlife; the car-free island of Vlieland is an absolute must-visit. With bike-friendly boats that you can book on the day, you can embrace spontaneous travel without the stress of airport check-in.”
The Glacier Express
Who said the Swiss Alps are only worth a visit during ski season? In fact, for many this trip is best enjoyed in the summer when you’ll be less blinded by the dazzling snowy peaks. Edwards recommends the Glacier Express which can be broken up into sections to squeeze in hiking among the elements. Take the Eurostar to Paris from where you’ll change to a high-speed train. “Depart from the Zermatt resort in Switzerland and take in the Matterhorn, Rhine Gorge and Rhône Glacier before arriving in St Moritz. Stop off and hike among the most beautiful and iconic mountains and valleys of central Europe, while also enjoying incredible food and drink (don’t miss the raclette in Matterhorn).”
Sicily by sleeper train
Ditching flights doesn’t have to mean that the classic summer holiday destinations are off the agenda. Take Sicily: Byway Travel offers a 14-day tour to Sicily and back for £1,589 per person. “By stopping en route as you travel down through Italy, you’ll get a taste of Turin’s thriving art and food scenes, before heading to Rome and boarding the night-time Intercity Notte train to Catania, Sicily,” says Jones. “As well as experiencing the magic of the sleeper train, the Intercity Notte will board a ferry to cross the sea. You can alight the train and head to the top deck for the rare chance to watch the coast draw nearer at dawn. This adventurous journey is a true testament to the joy of travelling through, not over.”
Europe by rail travel tips from the No Fly Travel Club
When booking trains in Europe, book as far in advance as possible — usually three months (six months for Eurostar) — as this will give you the greatest choice of times and the cheapest prices.
Investigate whether an interrail pass would make the journey cheaper for you — this is especially good for families as up to two children under 12 can travel for free with each adult pass bought.
Don’t be afraid to ask an expert to help. Booking trains can be confusing, but a little knowledge of the system goes a long way and could save you valuable time and money.
When preparing to travel, try to pack as lightly as possible. This will make life much easier when changing trains and enable you to make the most of stop-offs. Use resources like Radical Storage(radicalstorage.com) to find convenient spots to stash your luggage and make the most
