They’re cheap, nutritious, sustainable and versatile. But despite their credentials, mussels are often overlooked by Australian diners. “I’m genuinely perplexed why mussels aren’t more popular and also why they’re at such a low price point,” says the executive chef of Brisbane’s Greca and Yoko, Oscar Solomon. “I think they’re bloody fantastic.”
It’s possible to find live, Australian-grown, pot-ready mussels for as little as $9 a kilo – less than half the price of free-range chicken thighs and considerably cheaper than steak. And gram for gram, mussels contain more iron than both. They also rate highly as a source of protein, omega 3 fatty acids, vitamins B2 and B12, phosphorus, selenium and iodine.
Domestic mussel consumption figures are scant, but the executive director of Eyre Peninsula Seafoods, Andrew Puglisi, estimates New Zealanders polish off 10 times more mussels than Australians. Europeans, meanwhile, consume from two to four kilos of the bivalves a person each year.
But mussels could be having their moment. It’s been a long, hard slog to get there for Puglisi and his team, who are now the country’s largest producers of premium mussels.
“Over the last three to four years we’ve built our consistency and quality of supply to a level that supermarkets have now got us on their shelves and mussels are starting to get a higher profile, which is encouraging as a producer,” says Puglisi.
He grew up on the family prawn trawler in South Australia, segued into tuna farming and then saw what he thought was the strongest opportunity for growth in the seafood industry – mussels.
It’s becoming easier to get hold of mussels as more big retailers around Australia stock them, says Sam Gordon, managing director at South Coast Mariculture, the company behind Jervis Bay Mussels. Woolworths in Sydney’s Double Bay, for example, features a live mussel tank.
Stocking them is a decision that can help supermarkets bolster their green credentials. “Mussels are right up there as one of the world’s most sustainable foods,” Gordon says.
The Sustainable Seafood Guide, which helps consumers make ethical seafood choices, gives mussels a green, or “better choice” rating, meaning Australians should be aiming to put more on their plates. Because mussels are filter feeders, healthy populations are a sign of a clean marine environment, and farming them has little impact on surrounding ecosystems.
So Australian mussels are cheap, sustainable and nutritious – why aren’t we keener on eating them? Puglisi puts it down to diners’ discomfort.
“A lot of consumers are too scared to eat, or even try mussels. They’d rather just put a steak on the barbie.”
Solomon has found the same in restaurants. “People seem less inclined to go for something … served in a shell,” he says. “I feel like there’s a physical component. Maybe it’s to do with a fear of getting their hands dirty.”
But there is a mess-free way to eat mussels: using an empty shell as a pair of ‘tweezers’ to pull the flesh from the remaining shells.
How to cook mussels
For many, the biggest obstacle to cooking mussels is a lack of familiarity, or confusion over the correct method to use. What do you do with live mussels that are open and don’t close when tapped? Or with cooked ones that haven’t opened?
A rule of thumb when using pot-ready mussels (that is, live mussels that have been scrubbed, cleaned and debearded) is to discard any that are broken or cracked. As for the rest, if they smell OK and look OK, they should be fine to eat. The Sustainable Seafood Guide says it’s a myth that closed mussels should be discarded. Any mussels that remain closed after cooking should be gently prised open – if they’re bad you’ll smell it distinctly.
As for cooking times, less is more, as mussels shrivel when overcooked. Between three and five minutes in the pan is the sweet spot for soft, juicy mussels.
If you’re using pot-ready varieties, you can have dinner for four on the table in the time it takes to cook a packet of linguine.
Just take a big pot and fry some garlic (at least three cloves), fennel seeds and chilli flakes with a glug of olive oil. Add a can of crushed tomatoes and a splash of white wine. Mix it up, then stir through your mussels – as they cook, they’ll open and release that amazing flavour of the ocean.
The whole thing should be ready by the time your pasta has finished boiling. If you’re worried about the sauce becoming too salty (it won’t), you can steam the mussels first and add to a cooked tomato sauce afterwards.
Scatter with chopped coriander, parsley or dill, and don’t forget to put out bowls for the empty shells. Or try Solomon’s recipes below.
Oscar Solomon’s mussels, two ways
“Everyone loves to steam mussels in garlic and white wine, but since I’ve been cooking Japanese food I’ve been sauteing them and then creating a stock,” Solomon says. “Then you can take this in whatever direction you like: a miso soup, or use it with pasta or noodles so it thickens and emulsifies into a rich, umami sauce.
“These recipes are designed so you can buy a kilo of pot-ready mussels and a leek, and stretch this over two dishes.”
Mussels, ginger and leek miso soup
Prep 10 min
Cook 15 min
Serves 2–4
Vegetable oil
2-3cm knob of ginger, skin removed, thinly sliced
⅕ leek, white part only, julienned (substitute spring onion if leek not available)
500g pot-ready blue mussels
250ml water
½ tsp instant dashi stock powder
1 tbsp red miso
20ml sake
20ml mirin
15ml soy sauce (optional)
Butter, at room temperature, to garnish (optional)
In a medium-sized pot, warm a small amount of vegetable oil (enough to saute).
Gently saute the ginger and half the leek until softened.
Add mussels and toss once to coat the shells. Gently add the water, ensuring the mussels are covered.
Bring to a boil, turn heat down and simmer gently for two to four minutes or until the mussels have opened. Remove mussels and cool under running water to stop them overcooking.
Gently simmer stock for another five minutes, then add dashi stock powder. Taste and add more powder if needed. Strain stock through a fine sieve to remove sediment.
Using a whisk or chopsticks, add miso, sake and mirin to the stock until completely incorporated.
Taste soup for seasoning. If required, gradually add soy sauce.
Return mussels to the soup and gently warm through (two to three minutes).
Serve in a deep bowl, and garnish with remaining leek and a small knob of butter, if desired.
Lemon ouzo mussels, warrigal greens and tomato oil
Prep 20 min
Cook 25 min
Serves 3-6
Olive oil, to saute
½ bulb fennel, thinly sliced
⅗ leek (including the remaining white part from miso soup recipe)
500g pot-ready blue mussels, such as Kinkawooka
100ml ouzo
1 lemon, zested, plus juice
½ bunch thyme (about 50g)
1 tsp ground pepperberry (or substitute ½ tsp ground black pepper)
3 bay leaves, fresh or dried
200ml water
1 tbsp frozen peas
200g warrigal greens (or substitute English spinach or peas)
Soft herbs, preferably parsley or basil, leaves picked or chopped (optional)
For the roast tomato oil
500g very ripe tomatoes, suitable for a sauce (preferably cherry tomatoes)
3 garlic cloves, preferably Australian, skin on
1 tsp dried isot pepper, ground (or substitute chilli powder)
300ml olive oil
To make the roast tomato oil, preheat oven to 120C (110C fan-forced). In a baking tray, add tomatoes, garlic, isot pepper and 50ml olive oil, and toss to combine. Slow-roast tomatoes for one hour and 30 minutes or until blistered and softened. Set aside to cool.
In a blender, puree roasted tomatoes with remaining olive oil and blitz on high for three to five minutes. Strain through a cheesecloth or oil filter.
To make ouzo mussels, place a wide-based pan on medium heat. Once pan is warm, add olive oil (enough to saute), then fennel and leek. Saute gently for three to five minutes.
Add mussels to the pan, toss to combine, then turn up heat to high.
Once hot, remove pan from direct heat. Carefully add ouzo to the pan, ensuring not to flambé the stock.
Add lemon zest, thyme and half the pepperberry. Toss to combine.
Add bay leaves and water, ensuring there is enough water to cover at least three-quarters of the mussels, and bring to a boil. Remove mussels and run under cold water to stop overcooking.
Reduce pan heat to a simmer, and continue to cook the stock for five to 10 minutes, until reduced by one-third.
When ready to serve, remove bay leaves. Return mussels to the pan, and add peas and warrigal greens. Toss to combine. Taste for seasoning, and add remaining pepperberry and lemon juice (to taste). Drizzle with roasted tomato oil and garnish with herbs, if desired.
