Fletchers at Grantley Hall, Ripon, North Yorkshire, HG4 3ET (01765 620 070, grantleyhall.co.uk). Starters £12.50-£19.50, mains £24-£50, desserts £11.50-£14, wines from £34
I arrived at Grantley Hall on time for my booking, and still I was late for my table. That was because of the long drive from the front gates, through a huge pool-table baize of manicured lawns, to the car park. It was followed by the challenge of finding a space amid the Porsche and Tesla charging points. We then had to stride back through the car park pretending we belonged there, sweetly serenaded by the soft piano jazz being piped at us disconcertingly through the undergrowth.
