My latest Northern Ireland jaunt was a new experience in that I travelled on the overnight Stena Line ferry from Liverpool to Belfast, with a cabin to while away the eight-hour crossing in the land of nod.
This time, I would finally get to visit Rory McIlroy's home club at Holywood, but hitting Belfast docks at 6.30am meant a dawn arrival as first out at Malone Golf Club before that, which I had very much enjoyed on a previous visit some years earlier.
This article starts with my afternoon game at Scrabo east of Belfast, though, which had been brought to my attention by Irish golf journalist Kevin Markham’s photos of the eye-catching tower that forms the backdrop to the difficult opening hole.
Scrabo Tower came on my radar when I was still eight miles away but the tee on the par-3 2nd is then right at the foot of it, with the 2nd green and 3rd tee offering stirring views out over Strangford Lough.
The last thing I needed after an early start and 18 holes at Malone was a hilly course, but at Scrabo you drop down from, and back up to, the higher ground enough times for tired legs to feel it.
The huge drop via the 13th and 14th from the 12th green near the clubhouse may be memorable but does mean one final climb to regain lost ground. Despite this, I loved my game here and would recommend it if you’re looking for a lesser-known course in the Belfast area.
Down by the lough
My next port of call was Royal Belfast, on the shores of Belfast Lough, which I had played before. The Harry Colt layout here ranks among the best golf courses in Northern Ireland.
Its elegant clubhouse is a special place, too, and I enjoyed chatting to the staff and letting them talk me into the ‘Nine-hole fry’ breakfast despite my futile protestations.
Since my previous game, a major bunker renovation had sparked an incredible transformation. The whole course now sets up much better visually, and there’s more to come, with much significant work taking place on the front nine when I visited.
The 1st is a tough test, while the 4th is a very attractive short par 3 at the high point. From here, you sweep down towards the lough on the par-5 5th, then right down to its shores from the 8th green to the tee of the uphill par-3 11th that I remembered vividly on account of its semi-blindness.
There is much to enjoy on the final run for home, including the very attractive and well-bunkered par 5 at 16.
Close by lies the splendid Culloden Estate and Spa, where, as the owner of a property called Clock House, I was delighted to be shown to the Clock Tower Suite – home from home!
I arrived in time to make full use of the pool and spa before a cracking dinner in the Cultra Inn, effectively the hotel’s very own pub within the grounds.
Rory’s old stomping ground
The following morning, it was finally time to see where Northern Ireland’s finest honed his game as a child. People had told me you needed one leg shorter than the other at Holywood, but while it is, indeed, on the side of a hill, I coped fine with two legs of equal length.
I liked the course, which offers early chances via three short par 4s, before the drop-hole par-3 4th ups the stakes. The back nine on higher ground perhaps edges it, with several strong holes plus the extraordinary long par-4 12th with its blind approach.
I was thrilled to par it, but in soft conditions it took a flushed 3-wood and good two-putt from long range. I expect Rory hits wedge into this green!
There is, of course, an area in the clubhouse devoted to Rory, but what I liked was that it wasn’t overdone. They’re rightly proud of all he has achieved, but, ultimately, it is just a normal members’ club.
Before boarding the overnight ferry home, I was pleased to finally get to visit Titanic Belfast, an excellent immersive experience, and one that is fascinating, thought-provoking and moving in equal measure.
Scrabo
Par 71, 6.254 yards
Green fee £35wd, £40we
Royal Belfast
Par 70, 6,185 yards
Green fee: £80-£200wd; £105-£250we
Holywood
Par 70, 6,015 yards
Green fee: £60
Stay
Culloden Estate and Spa
Holywood, Belfast, BT18 OEX
W: cullodenestateandspa.com
For more information visit Tourism Ireland’s dedicated golf page at ireland.com/golf
(Prices correct at time of publication in January 2026)
