Santorini's signature view is as marvellous as ever. From my vantage point at Adami restaurant in the picture-perfect village of Oia, I can see the semicircular sweep of the volcanic crater’s cliffs plunging deeply into a midnight-blue sea, with Thirassia islet completing its outline on the other side. Ferries are buzzing in and out of the port beneath Fira, the island’s capital, while the massive cruise ships anchored nearby are so far below that they look like bath toys.
It's an everyday Santorini scene, but this year’s tourist season is anything but average. Oia, though still bustling, is considerably quieter than usual: a situation that’s partly attributed to the earthquakes that shook the island back in February, right in the middle of the peak booking period for sunshine holidays.