Maria Grazia Chiuri put lingerie at the center of Fendi's Spring/Summer 2027 collection, presented during Milan Fashion Week on September 23. Bras, boxer shorts, slips, camisoles and sports bras appeared as visible parts of the wardrobe, while lace, sheer fabrics and more structured pieces created a collection focused on the relationship between clothing and the body.
The show marked Chiuri's second Fendi ready-to-wear outing. Vogue's Milan Fashion Week schedule confirms that the designer's second Fendi show took place on Wednesday, September 23, during the Spring/Summer 2027 season, which runs from September 22 to 28.
Fendi's own description of the collection centers on freedom and contemporary ideas of the body, describing garments as a kind of "second skin" and emphasizing a meeting of masculine and feminine elements beyond traditional wardrobe stereotypes.
Lingerie Moves Into the Main Wardrobe
The most immediate visual statement came from the treatment of underwear. Vogue Italia reported that bras, boxers and slips became central components of the collection, with lace-trimmed versions, camisoles and sports bras incorporated into looks rather than treated exclusively as hidden layers.
W Magazine similarly described undergarments as the stars of the show. Its runway report noted a first look combining a white button-front dickey with a black lace-trimmed slip, while later looks incorporated lace-trimmed and embroidered bralettes into deconstructed tailoring, tuxedo vests and shirt dresses.
The lingerie-focused approach extended beyond individual pieces. Vogue Italia described long dresses in both lace and transparent fabrics, sometimes paired with more structured elements including collars and furry shawls. The collection also included accessories such as Baguette bags and jewel-like shoes.
Vogue's runway review identified additional elements including long black dresses with cutouts, dresses finished with beads and fur, patterned coats, lace-edged silk romper shorts, leopard-print pieces and striped shirting. The publication also reported that Chiuri had developed a smaller version of the Baguette designed to hold a phone.
Raffaella Carrà, Adriano Celentano and the Mirror Box
The collection's cultural references were deliberately broad. Vogue Italia connected Chiuri's approach to Italian pop icon Raffaella Carrà and her association with freedom and self-expression, while the show's soundtrack featured Adriano Celentano's 1972 song "Prisencolinensinainciusol."
Vogue reported that Carrà's performance history with Celentano informed the show's musical references. One of their televised performances of "Prisencolinensinainciusol" was staged with choreography and Carrà, and Chiuri's show incorporated the song into its soundtrack, alongside Carrà's "Rumore."
The runway environment added another layer to the presentation. Vogue and W Magazine reported that the models moved through a mirrored box inspired by Italian Arte Povera artist Luciano Fabro's Cubo di specchi, or Mirror Cube. The reflective structure repeatedly fragmented the models' appearances while also bringing the audience into the visual field.
W Magazine also identified E. E. Cummings's poem "i like my body when it is with yours" among Chiuri's references. The publication interpreted the combination of mirrors, fashion and intimacy as part of a broader exploration of human connection in a world increasingly mediated by screens. That interpretation belongs to W Magazine's review rather than being presented here as an independent statement from Fendi.
A Collection Built Around Freedom and the Body
Across the collection, Chiuri used lingerie, tailoring, sheer fabrics and contrasting materials to question where particular garments belong within a wardrobe. Vogue Italia characterized the approach as one that challenges established boundaries between underwear and outerwear, while also emphasizing the dialogue between traditionally masculine and feminine elements.
Fendi's own description places the collection within a broader idea of freedom, describing contemporary bodies as simultaneously strong and fragile and garments as responsive to the emotions shaping everyday life.
For Spring/Summer 2027, that idea became visible through what is normally concealed. Rather than treating underwear as an afterthought, Chiuri made it one of the collection's defining starting points, placing bras, slips and other intimate layers directly within Fendi's ready-to-wear vocabulary.
