At 6.45am on an uneventful day in July, seven trekkers and I wished each other cheery ‘good mornings’ at our campsite in Trunkhol, Kashmir, some 3,500 metres above sea level.
Amidst idyllic rolling green meadows where horses grazed, we sat chomping down a hearty breakfast of omelette, buttered toast, Maggi and kahwa, at the foot of Mount Harmukh (5,142 metres), part of the expansive Himalayan range.
