The allure of a luxury serum for a fraction of its price or a cult mascara at half cost, often advertised across social media feeds, can seem like an irresistible bargain. However, what appears to be a small victory for the wallet could, in reality, pose a significant threat to health and safety.
This burgeoning market for counterfeit beauty products represents one of the fastest-growing segments within the fake goods industry. Data from the Government’s Intellectual Property Office reveals a concerning trend, with online purchases of counterfeit cosmetics and toiletries increasing by 6 per cent by the end of 2025.
Dr Emma Meredith OBE, director-general of the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA), issued a stark warning about these deceptive items. "Counterfeit beauty products might look like the real deal, but that’s where the similarity stops," she stated. "Behind the copycat packaging, you could be buying something that doesn’t work as promised and could even put your health at risk."
Unlike legitimate cosmetics, fake products do not have to comply with the UK’s strict safety laws.
Every genuine cosmetic sold in Britain must meet the requirements of the UK Cosmetics Regulation, which covers everything from ingredient safety to manufacturing conditions. Each product must undergo a rigorous safety assessment by a qualified professional and list a UK-based “Responsible Person” on its packaging.
Fakes bypass all of this. “We don’t know what is in the fakes and counterfeits, nor how or where they have been made,” Meredith explains. “They are highly unlikely to have been through the thorough safety requirements which are mandatory for legally compliant cosmetic products.”
But why the sudden surge? Partly it is structural. Online shopping surged during the pandemic and never fully retreated and counterfeiters followed the traffic. Digital marketplaces and social platforms make it easier to hide behind false identities, use stolen imagery and vanish overnight.
Economic pressure also plays a role. “The cost-of-living increase may drive consumers to look for discounted or cheap options,” Meredith notes, “and they may be buying counterfeit items believing they are saving money on the real product.”
The result is a market flooded with convincing lookalikes, from prestige skincare to everyday make-up.
What fake beauty actually contains
When the UK Intellectual Property Office tested a range of counterfeit beauty and hygiene products as part of its “Choose Safe Not Fake” campaign, the results were grim to say the least.
Samples of setting sprays, hydrating serums and moisturisers contained carcinogenic substances such as beryllium oxide, banned heavy metals including arsenic, lead and mercury – and evidence of rodent urine and horse faeces, pointing to the unsanitary conditions in which they were produced.
Using these products can trigger allergic reactions, chemical burns, infections and long-term skin damage. Fake perfumes often fail to declare ingredients, which leaves people with allergies unable to protect themselves. Counterfeit make-up has also been linked to skin burns and serious irritation.
This is why the industry insists that safety is not a marketing add-on. It is built into the law.
How to spot a fake before it reaches your bathroom shelf
There is no foolproof way to verify authenticity before you buy, particularly online, but there are patterns.
Price, place of sale and packaging remain the biggest clues. If a product is dramatically cheaper than every other retailer, caution is warranted.
“If the product is being offered at a very cheap price, the chances are that it is an untested and unsafe look-alike that’s not worth the potential cost to your health,” Meredith warns.
Packaging often gives counterfeits away. Misspelt brand names, slightly “off” logos, flimsy boxes, odd wording or missing information are common. Legitimate cosmetics sold in the UK must list a full ingredients panel and a UK Responsible Person with a physical address.
Online, the danger signs multiply. “Flash sale” ads that push urgency, social accounts that use brand names but are not linked from the brand’s official website, poorly written product pages with no customer service details, and sellers who post constantly but never engage with comments are all common counterfeit tells. So are unverified influencers promoting “too good to be true” deals.
The safest route remains boring but effective: buy from the brand’s own website or from established, reputable retailers.
Why “grey market” isn’t the same as fake
Confusion often arises around the idea of “grey market” beauty – products sold outside official distribution channels but still genuine.
The CTPA does not arbitrate commercial arrangements, but stresses that the grey market is not the same as counterfeit. A grey market product may be legal but unofficial; a counterfeit is illegal and unsafe.
The same rules apply: consider the retailer, the price and the product itself. If something feels off, it usually is.
What to do if you think you’ve bought a fake
If a product smells wrong, performs badly, irritates your skin or looks unlike previous purchases, stop using it. If you suspect it is counterfeit, you can report it to Trading Standards via the Citizens Advice consumer helpline on 0808 223 1133 or through its online chat service.
You can also alert the brand. Most companies track counterfeit activity closely and work with authorities to shut sellers down.
The safest route remains boring but effective: buy from the brand’s own website or from established, reputable retailers. In the UK, that means well-known beauty specialists and high-street names with clear customer service and returns policies – the likes of Boots, Cult Beauty, Space NK or Look Fantastic – rather than pop-up sellers on social media or unfamiliar marketplaces.
Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Setting Spray, £20, Space NK
The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% Supersize Serum, £9, Look Fantastic
La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5+ Ultra Repairing Soothing Balm, £19.50, Boots
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