As an accordion plays, 80-year-old Maime Kapten spins across the grass field, her embroidered skirt swirling and silver chains and coins around her neck jangling.
Kapten is a member of the Seto ethnic community, which once a year turns a village in southeastern Estonia into a symbolic kingdom for a day — complete with entry visas instead of tickets, made-up currency and even a mock military parade. She's one of only a few thousand fluent speakers of Seto, which is closely related to the Estonian language.
