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MOREY STETTNER

Erik Weihenmayer's Blindness Didn't Stop Him From Climbing Everest

Diagnosed with a rare eye disease at age four, Erik Weihenmayer grew up struggling to see. He was blind by the time he reached high school.

After a few rebellious teen years, he adjusted his attitude. Extracurricular activities such as wrestling and rock climbing provided outlets for goal attainment and personal growth. He vowed from a young age that the things he couldn't do, he'd let go. But the things he could do, he'd learn to do well.

He advanced from climbing rocks to summiting the world's tallest mountains. By his early 30s, he had scaled four of the seven summits — the highest peaks on each of the seven continents. In 2001, he became the first blind person to reach the top of Mount Everest. And in 2008, he scaled Carstensz Pyramid in Papua New Guinea — the last of the seven summits.

"I've always been motivated to think big," Weihenmayer said.

The idea of a sightless person climbing the tallest, most challenging mountains in the world is hard to fathom. But Weihenmayer looks beyond his blindness to embrace life in full.

Now 55, Weihenmayer continues to climb throughout the year. He also cofounded No Barriers, a nonprofit organization that designs programs to foster self-discovery and build community.

From enhancing the lives of military veterans with disabilities to enabling family caregivers to recharge and find balance, No Barriers offers retreats, wilderness experiences and virtual events. Participants gain inner strength to persevere amid life's obstacles and develop a can-do, empowering mindset.

Erik Weihenmayer: Be Grateful To Your Mentors

Climbing Everest, Denali or any of the other famous peaks that Weihenmayer conquered requires diligent conditioning, preparation and teamwork. Due to his blindness, he relied on his companions even more.

"I had to attract a strong team and they had to train a lot to be part of these historic things," he said. "I want to climb with solid friends whom I trust to help us get through hard situations together."

Early on, Weihenmayer learned to forge bonds with teammates by lending a hand whenever he could. He knew that they had to help him along the way. So he pounced on opportunities to ease their burden. "I always want to be able to contribute," he said. "It might be helping them set up the tent or giving them my (energy bar)."

Reared by supportive parents "who never wanted me to be left out of anything" and shaped by other mentors, Weihenmayer also learned to express gratitude. "If you're unappreciative, no one will want to take you under their wing," he said. "It's got to be reciprocal. It can't be one-way."

He applies the same approach now that he's mentoring young climbers. His goal is to surround himself with resilient people who elevate his game. "Just yesterday, I was doing an ice climb with a 24-year-old who had me on belay," he said. "It was too loose and he dropped me. I fell and hit my elbow."

The young climber apologized profusely to Weihenmayer. "Dude, it's not your fault," Weihenmayer replied. "Mistakes happen."

When a teammate errs, Weihenmayer says he tends to "forgive quickly, move forward and not dwell on what went wrong." This breeds trust and rebuilds confidence.

Pick Teammates With 'Unrealistic Optimism'

By responding calmly and taking the mishap in stride, Weihenmayer sought to model the kind of tutelage that he values most. He predicts the young climber will learn the right lesson.

"I'm not going to walk around making him feel guilty," he said. "People are imperfect. If your ideal is people have to be perfect all the time, you'll be let down."

Because Weihenmayer relies on teammates to facilitate his expeditions, he selects them with care. He seeks people with what he calls "unrealistic optimism" — a belief in what they're doing and a desire to redefine what's possible.

Yet even after decades of recruiting teammates, he finds that it's more art than science. In 2019, for example, he enlisted a 30-year-old hotshot climber for an ambitious outing.

"He got super-sick from altitude sickness," Weihenmayer recalled. "Since then, I've invited him to go on other climbs. He doesn't want to talk to me because he's so prideful and (ashamed)."

Weihenmayer isn't necessarily looking for the most skilled climbers. Instead, he wants people with passion who persevere amid adversity. Many people aspire to set bold goals, he says. But self-doubt can creep in.

"There are a million barriers out there," he explained. "You're not smart enough. You're physically disabled."

The people he admires most ask the right questions to overcome barriers. Instead of berating themselves ("What if I were smarter?" "What if I could see?"), they pose constructive questions ("How do I attain this goal with the tools I have?").

Inspire Others To Learn And Grow

In "Touch The Top Of The World," his 2001 memoir of his early years and Everest adventure, Weihenmayer reflects on his success and lessons learned. For instance, he experiences highs and lows without getting carried away.

"Never comment on how good something is," he advised another climber who noted the smooth trail. "It upsets the mountain gods."

He co-authored "No Barriers" in 2018. It follows his life since Everest, including kayaking through the Grand Canyon and leading blind Tibetan teens on expeditions.

"It's not enough just to win yourself," he told IBD. "You've got to help elevate the team around you."

Weihenmayer's sense of wonder is contagious. His teammates rave about his positive energy and inquisitiveness even when facing the most difficult terrain.

"Erik has joyous curiosity," said Timmy O'Neill, a California-based professional rock climber. "He's always asking questions and doing a deep dive not only around the landscape we visit, but also what we encounter when we're there and what we realize when we return."

Bring Out The Best In Others

It's not surprising that Weihenmayer brings out the best in others. They cannot help but be inspired by his fortitude.

"Erik challenges himself physically, mentally and intellectually," said O'Neill, who has known Weihenmayer for over 20 years. "For me, he's a great example of life being a return on what you put into it."

Learning to accept help from others didn't come naturally to Weihenmayer. In his early teens, he admits he was "angry and bratty." As he matured, however, he began to realize the value of a community that brings out the best in each member. His expeditions enable him to recreate that sense of community.

In 2016, he met a young man, Cole Rogers, born with arthrogryposis, a rare condition that weakened his muscles and fused his joints. Wheelchair-bound, Rogers began teaching self-defense courses.

At a climbing event hosted by Weihenmayer's group, No Barriers, Rogers was approaching the summit when his wheelchair battery died. Undeterred, Rogers maneuvered himself onto the ground and struggled to push himself the last 300 feet.

"There were 200 of us watching Cole get out of his chair and arm-crawl his way to the summit," Weihenmayer said. "We were all crying."

Erik Weihenmayer's Keys:

  • First blind mountaineer to summit Mount Everest, the world's tallest peak, on May 25, 2001.
  • Overcame: A rare eye disease in childhood that caused him to go blind.
  • Lesson: "It's not enough just to win yourself. You've got to help elevate the team around you."
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