At his spring summer 24 show on Saturday morning, JW Anderson described his collection as a kind of “unravelled control”. Pieces, including hoodies and shorts sculpted from modelling clay, as well as cargo trousers with slanted pockets, sleeveless oversize bomber jackets edged with feathers and knitted slip dresses sought to explore and reinterpret the idea of everyday pieces to find, in his words, “a new type of modernity through experimentation, reduction.”
His thoughts set the mood. Molly Goddard’s research took her to the National Theatre costume hire, where she extrapolated ideas from the internal workings of the garments there. Her resulting collection beautifully turned the inside out, internal boning and seams were exposed on the outside of skirts and tops, faded upholstery prints; skirts with ruffled petticoat edging, seams prominent on the front of sweet strapless dresses in soft yellow, bodices reminiscent of fifties soft cup bras, knit cardigans balanced on shoulders edged in satin recalled thick, homely blankets.
