Epicurus, Unit 90, The North Yard, Camden Stables Market, London NW1 8AH. Small dishes £3-£12, larger dishes £11-£16.50, dessert £8, wines from £29
If you decide to go to Epicurus and you probably should, perhaps when drunk, be prepared to power up Google Maps. Maybe carry a sheaf of the Ordnance Survey’s finest and a compass. Better still, go with a young person who is used to navigating the cobbled, labyrinthine mess that is the refurbished Stables Market at London’s Camden Town. In the early 80s, when I was a 16-year-old regular round here, I recall it as an architectural bin-fire of grand old red brick, fox-scented, guano-smeared ramshackle outbuildings; a superb place in which to witness Doc Marten-wearing skinheads fronting up gangs of aspiring psychobillies hot out of the nearby Electric Ballroom.
