Emily in Paris is dramatic regarding most things: Relationships, friendships, and, of course, fashion. In fact, beauty looks might be the only subdued (albeit defining) trait on the Netflix series. Since season one, lead makeup artist Aurélie Payen has been determined to infuse the ease of French girl beauty into Emily Cooper’s otherwise maximalist aesthetic.
“French beauty is softer than American beauty,” Payen tells Marie Claire in an exclusive interview. “We’ve taken the best of both culture's beauty practices and mixed them together for Lily Collins’s character.” Alongside Emily’s signature bold brow or the little gemstone adorned to her lower lash line at the masquerade ball in episode three, you’ll find the best bits of Parisian effortless glam. “Emily came from America, so she couldn’t have full French makeup. We wanted to have the character be true to herself, while introducing a French vibe little by little,” Payen says.
The start of season four signals a greater adaptation of French beauty ideals than we’ve seen in the past. Emily's skin is natural and glowy (courtesy of the $799 LED face mask she used daily while filming). Her matte lipstick is primed, blotted, and blurred—a French girl hallmark made possible by a coveted lip primer (details below). Her eyes and cheeks are (normally) makeup-free, save a single coat of a very special luxury mascara.
Emily aside, every character on the show embodies different intensities of the French archetype. Sylvie Grateau [Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu] is the blueprint with her no-botox-no-foundation-au-natural beauty look. “Little makeup is always better. Once you age, it’s really always better, but I was like this even when I was younger,” Leroy-Beaulieu previously told Marie Claire. “The natural beauty comes out.”
On the other hand, Camille [Camille Razat] has a “very strong” ideation of Parisian beauty—with her own personality-driven twist. You can't miss her bold, brownish lip in nearly every scene. “She uses a lot of makeup too, but in a way where you can barely see it,” explains Payen. “It’s not about adding so much or covering up—rather it's about enhancing the parts we love.”
Regardless of which character resonates with your personal beauty aesthetic, there are lots of French beauty tips, tricks, and secrets that can be learned from Emily in Paris. Here, Payen breaks down the French girl products and application techniques she uses on set—so you can steal them for yourself.
Always Opt for a Bold Lip
A rich red or bold berry lip is an intentional Emily Cooper signature. “Her character is very talkative and needs to express feelings and emotions. I wanted to focus on the lips for her because it’s how she communicates with people, says what she has to say, and is very vocal,” says Payen.
While a handful of lipstick shades are in rotation this season, each color is chosen to match Emily’s outfit or environment. “Every look has a story,” says Payen. “It’s more French to have bold lips and no eye makeup than American—Americans like a gloss,” she says, explaining why she chose Makeup by Mario Ultra Suede Lipstick in the shade Nicole, which is an intense burgundy brown.
The shade itself has a French name, but it's the application technique that's a page out of the Parisian beauty playbook. “First, I apply Yon-Ka Nutri-Contour Nourishing Eye Cream to the lips; it helps the product stay longer. Then, after I apply the lipstick, I apply a tissue on top of it, and then I’m 100 percent sure it will stay forever.”
Stick With Solid Skincare
Leroy-Beaulieu’s approach to aging is adopted by and large by French women. Invasive procedures and injectables aren’t as common in France as they are stateside. Instead, there’s an emphasis on overall skin health. “Lily is here in Paris filming for four months, from early morning to late at night. Even when her skin is a bit tired, I need to maintain this glowy, French vibe,” says Payen.
Beauty tools take precedence for skin maintenance: Foreo’s Luna Facial Play Plus Cleansing Massager, the Foreo Bear, and Foreo’s LED mask are regulars in Collins’s regimen. "If you peak in the makeup room, everybody looks like robots," jokes Payen.
And skincare—namely the Le Domaine The Fluid Cream—is liberally applied on and off camera to maintain a dewy glow.
Keep Eyes Simple
French beauty typically lets the lips garner the most attention, with eyes taking a back seat. You won’t find bold eyeshadow in most of the Emily in Paris scenes—but you will find fluttery lashes courtesy of a notable French beauty brand. “Dior’s Diorshow Pump N Volume XXL Volume Squeezeable Mascara is my favorite. It stays all day and doesn’t fall apart or leave you with little black dots under your eyes,” says Payen.
That said, don’t feel like you have to avoid eye makeup. Even Emily gets a bit glitzy with a single rhinestone embellishment during the masquerade ball. Whatever you do, keep it simple. “If you’re going to do lashes, apply little Ardell whisps one by one,” she adds.
Opt for Natural-Looking Blushes
Americans love blush. The viral application tips are endless (think: sunset blush and boyfriend blush). You won’t find such intense pink and red pigments in Paris, but you will discover a handful of creamy, skin-first tints. “Emily is a character that needs blush,” Payen says, explaining that she uses the Westman Atelier Baby Cheeks Blush Stick in Bichette and Petal or a Chanel lip-cheek duo. Both have creamy textures that melt into the foundation, giving a rosy flush that looks natural and sunkissed.
