Dotting East Africa’s Swahili coast, Zanzibar, Lamu and Mombasa are synonymous with pristine waters and white sandy beaches. But many tourists are unaware that these UNESCO World Heritage Sites were the scene of a gruesome chapter in history. For centuries, the Swahili coast was central to the slave trade.
Between the 16th and early 20th centuries, Zanzibar, Lamu and Mombasa enjoyed immense wealth. The three locations were a key hub for trade between Africa, Oman, India and Europe. Ships that docked there left laden with spices, wood, ivory and gold… and enslaved people. Merchants like infamous Zanzibari slave trader Tippu Tip would capture men, women and children inland – sometimes even in the heart of the Congo – before bringing them back to the Swahili coast. Many of them were sold, while others were put to work in the fields. At the height of his dark enterprise, Tippu Tip forced almost 10,000 men to work on his clove plantations.
In 1873, the British Empire imposed a ban on the slave trade. The practice finally came to an end at the beginning of the 20th century. Since then, memories of this period have gradually disappeared on the East African coast. But some are trying to keep the memory of those who suffered from slavery alive.
This report begins in Zanzibar, where we witness the archipelago's first-ever commemorations of the slave trade's abolition. The old town recalls this era, its grand buildings and palaces a reminder of the area's wealth. The authorities have understood the importance of this history and are now trying to protect it – and maybe attract new tourism.
Next, we head for Mombasa, Kenya's second city, aboard a dhow – a traditional sailing boat from the Swahili coast. It was here, in East Africa's largest port, that enslaved people transported by an Omani ship landed and were freed by Great Britain in 1875. The settlers then allocated them land where they formed the Freretown community - named after Bartle Frere, the British government envoy who negotiated an end to the slave trade in the region. Today, their descendants want to ensure that the community is recognised and has a greater place in the region's history.
Finally, our dhow heads for the Lamu archipelago, on the northern coast of Kenya. Here, memories of slavery have all but disappeared. The impressive museum was recently renovated at vast expense by Oman, once a key player in the slave trade. The premises are now dedicated to the glory of the sultanate, and slavery is no longer mentioned. It is impossible to say whether this is an oversight or stems from a desire to erase history. But it does testify to a different approach to the other locations on the Swahili coast, and to a necessity: if the lessons of history are to endure, they must be kept alive.
