Identical twins Dean and Dan Caten refer to their mind in the singular, not the plural. ‘Our mind is busy at work’, they tell me from their Milan HQ, where they’re eagerly plotting their next Dsquared2 fashion show.
Since founding their label in 1995, the brothers have stayed true to their signature low-rise, tongue-in-cheek, bubblegum aesthetic that played a huge part in defining Noughties fashion — or, as is now known, Y2K.
Whether it’s Naomi Campbell legging it down the catwalk towards a private jet, or Sister Sledge performing (and changing their lyrics to ‘we are family, Dsquared2 family’) you can expect an element of performance from the Catens’ shows. ‘We grew up in the time of Mugler, Jean Paul Gaultier and Azzedine AlaiÌa,’ they tell me. ‘We would sneak into all these shows when we were teenagers. And we’re showy kind of guys. Who doesn’t love a show?’
Their most recent AW24 collection was no exception. With the same nostalgic theatrics of Stars in Their Eyes, models marched down the runway in daywear before magically transforming into evening wear — an illusion that could only have been pulled off by identical twins, of course.
‘All the models were twins but we showed their different sides,’ they explain. ‘It was about saying: we are identical twins but she’s stable and I’m a little bit unstable. Or one is responsible and one is a little bit less responsible. I think it’s good to be balanced.’ Even the Catens themselves walked in the show, Dan wearing a mesh shirt and trousers, while Dean was in full drag.
The youngest of seven older siblings, Dean and Dan have an English mother and an Italian father, but were born and raised in Canada. Aged 19, they pursued their dreams in fashion by moving to New York to study at Parsons — though they only stayed for one semester. In 1991, they moved from Toronto to Milan to work under Gianni Versace, and later for Diesel. ‘We thought, let’s go to Europe and try and make our dreams come true. Our parents came from Europe to America to complete their circle and we’re completing the other 180 by going back.’
Four years later, they launched their own brand. ‘We knew we had one shot. So we thought what name, what word could mean Dean and Dan together? Two creative forces working together in harmony? That’s where the mathematical equation of Dsquared2 came from. And it worked and we stuck with it.’
As easy as they make it sound, it wasn’t all smooth sailing. ‘Being new kids on the block, no one likes you. Especially the powerful kids on the block. They’ll do whatever they can to not make it easy for you. Milan is not a town for young designers, it is a town for old-school designers, unlike New York or London, which is a launching pad for new creativity. So we had to activate our twin forces and stick to it. Which we did.’
Their ‘twin forces’ are, undoubtedly, their superpower. ‘You’re never by yourself. If you have problems you’re not alone. We are very, very strong people because we have each other. A good friend is a good friend, but they can betray you. A twin brother is there for life. If the job gets hectic we’re a four legged monster with two heads,’ they laugh.
If the job gets hectic we’re a four-legged monster with two heads
‘We complete each other. We’re like a bird: he’s the wings that I cannot fly without, but I’m the legs that he cannot land without. We need each other and we love each other. We went through hard times as children, but [hard times] are nothing if you’re together.’
Beyond the two of them, their Dsquared2 family extends to some A-list names. As well as crediting Campbell as a loyal supporter of the brand, their famous fans include BeyonceÌ and Madonna — the last of whom was the catalyst for their first womenswear line. But who truly embodies the Dsquared2 brand? ‘Everyone in their own way but Cher was amazing. Lenny Kravitz. But they’re all different, all individuals. And that’s what we’re all about, individuality.’
Next year will mark 30 years for the brand. Between making plans for the big 3-0 and working on the concept for their next fashion show, this weekend they’re due to open a major new flagship store, right here in London on New Bond Street. Did they ever imagine the Dsquared2 empire to reach such heights? ‘The worst thing you can do is try. If you shoot an arrow in the sky and it goes real high, hooray for you. We weren’t money driven, we just wanted to be respected and fashion was our life. We just want to be remembered as contributors to fashion in our generation.’
