The Cafe de l’Hovercraft, established 1966, stands opposite the jardin Richelieu in the heart of Calais. I like the cheerfully retro name, harking back to a cross-Channel service from another age.
And I particularly enjoy the venue for its dozens of variants of Welsh rarebit, the gargantuan “Yeti steak hache”, and its extravagant hours (10am-1am, daily) for those who arrive in the French port with a Yeti-sized appetite after a long, uncertain journey.