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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Comment
Megan Nolan

Don’t meal-shame me: a table for one at a restaurant I love is the ultimate indulgence

A man sitting alone in a cafe.
‘A good restaurant acts as a site of refuge from the rest of life; a source of sanctuary and relief when everything else feels unmanageable.’ Photograph: Evelien DOosje/Alamy

In March this year my appetite left me for the first time in my life. My characteristic failing has always been a helpless, freewheeling, incontinent appetite for more or less everything: – food, men, booze – whatever is to hand, really. The problem has been moderating or neutralising it.

The idea of appetite disappearing was unthinkable, a fantasy to envision when I had overconsumed. Imagine not wanting anything; imagine food losing its complex, charged appeal without any effort or restraint. It’s the dream of women with eating issues, the ones who have squandered years anxiously scrutinising calorie charts and glycaemic indexes and BMI scales. Which is to say, many of us.

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