Hands up, who is dry Januarying? While it’s not something I do explicitly, I do like to cut back a bit at the beginning of the year. The marathon that is Christmas socialising can be fun but relentless, and I imagine there are many others in the same boat. When it comes to wine, at least, the problem with cutting back is what to do with the rest of the bottle. Sure, I’ll have a glass or two if I fancy it one evening, but it’s pretty much a wasted bottle if you don’t finish the rest within a few days. Fear not – I have a plethora of recipes that will ensure you never need to waste a drop – enjoy a glass or two, then use the rest in the dish of your choice. Winner, winner, chicken Marbella dinner (one of my all-time effortless favourites – scroll the link for the recipe).
There are lots of excellent suggestions in this wonderful feature on how to incorporate wine into everything from pasta to pudding. In particular, the braised short ribs from James Ramsden immediately caught my attention, as this is precisely the kind of food I want to be making and eating right now. Preferably with a pan of oozy, buttery polenta on the side. Another dish that is ticking all the cold, winter boxes is Tom Hunt’s meat stew, an all-round great braising method. If you are more of a white wine drinker, then Italian classic chicken cacciatore is equally comforting and would also be perfect with creamy polenta or mash. And let’s not forget about rosé – whoever says you can only drink it in the summer has clearly not read Fiona Beckett’s strong case for this delicate pink drink being enjoyed year-round. While the recipe for these prawns with garlic and chilli calls for white wine, I am confident you could happily switch for rosé.
If meat is not your bag, then there are also plenty of vegetarian ways to cook with wine. When I was growing up, my mum always used red wine in her pasta sauces, often with slow-cooked, sweet onions and aubergine. Rachel Roddy’s recipe for spaghetti with red wine and onions isn’t a million miles away from that nostalgic sauce, and the same goes for Joe Trivelli’s pici in red wine (with the added bonus of hardy, bitter radicchio). Meera Sodha also likes to pair full-bodied wine with radicchio, in the form of a hearty risotto, which is surely the ultimate bowl of winter food. I will take portions of them all, thank you.
And, just because it is January, let’s not forget pudding. In fact, I make more of a beeline for it during the colder months because my days deserve all the added joy they can find right now. While these cherries in red wine are a simple summer treat, I also love them in the depths of winter, made with what I consider a freezer essential – frozen pitted cherries. Make a batch, leave them in the fridge and enjoy whenever you need a sweet fix (I top them with whipped cream and crumbled amaretti). And while Nigel Slater’s recipe for spiced pears in red wine and chocolate calls for a whole bottle of red, rather than a leftover amount, I think it is worthy and brings all the good things to the winter table – a spectacular pudding, whether you are being abstemious or not.
My week in drinks
Posh pop | Mr Fitzpatrick’s Temperance Bar in Rawtenstall, Lancashire, is one of my favourite pit stops when I am in the north-west. The temperance movement originated not far away, in Preston in 1835, and then spread throughout the UK in a bid to promote abstinence. And this bar is a celebration of all things non-alcoholic – branding itself as a maker of “adult pop”. The bar itself is well worth a visit if you are nearby. And if you’re not, you can buy bottles of its homemade cordials online (we regularly do – my other half is a big fan of the sarsaparilla, and the dandelion and burdock), as well as in many delis and shops.
We (still) love to party | While I am still in the throes of January cosiness, sofa time and bowls of comfort food, I am starting to look forward to hosting and socialising again. And one thing I have learned is that while it is fun to play around with beverages, no one needs the host to be a top-notch mixologist. Cue Liberation’s party kegs. Save yourself unnecessary drinks stress and leave a premixed, top-notch cocktail keg in your kitchen for guests to help themselves to. They have favourites such as spicy margaritas, negronis and pisco sours, as well as pouches of non-alcoholic mixes such as raspberry mojito.
Claret or chianti? | If you find picking wine intimidating and would love to learn a few key tips and tricks on choosing a great bottle, then wine expert Olly Smith’s book Wine: Everything You Need to Know is for you. It’s accessible and witty, and will give you enough knowledge to confidently select your next bottle. If cocktails are more your thing, then buy a copy of Smith’s Home Cocktail Bible, or The Cocktail Edit by award-winning drinks expert Alice Lascelles – all great additions to any kitchen bookshelf.
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