Unless you’re amassing a wine collection (no, me, neither), you probably don’t pay a whole lot of attention to vintages, but, while their importance can be overstated, it can be useful to know what to expect. You’re no doubt aware that the southern hemisphere harvests six months ahead of Europe, so their 2023 vintages are already on the shelves. Is it too soon to buy them, though? Depends what you’re shopping for: it suits sauvignon blanc and bright breezy reds, but is less good for more complex wines.
And what about those older vintages that you often find on sale at this time of year? Does older always mean better? Not necessarily, because they may already be dried out. A lot has to do with price. More recent releases are by and large better for cheaper whites and reds, but once you’re spending more than £12, say, an earlier vintage may offer the complexity you’re paying for. For instance, a 2021 such as the Sainsbury’s pouilly-fumé in my pick below, offers more than the typical 2022. And I see no point in spending £20-plus on a 2021 or 2022 châteauneuf-du-pape – you might as well just buy a decent côtes du Rhône instead.
Also, does it depend on where in the world the wine is from? To an extent: if you’re in the market for a mature bordeaux, for example, 2016 and 2018 are both well-regarded, but then the 2018 vintage is pretty good right across Europe. And if you’re looking for a more recent vintage, 2020 is generally reliable, though in the case of beaujolais I prefer the fresher, more typical 2021s.
It also depends on the type of wine. Some wines, such as rioja, are designed for ageing – winemakers there have to abide by a regulatory framework, so a reserva, for example, needs to be aged for three years before release, and one year of that has to be in oak barrels.
It may also be a question of your own tastes, as well as how you intend to drink the wine. Is it worth paying the extra for vintage champagne, for instance? Not if you’re buying it for a party or simply prefer the fresher, crisper taste of a non-vintage.
Even vintages that are generally regarded as poor (though rarely by the region in question) are not invariably so. Even in a year that’s considered disappointing, and barring unpredictable weather such as frost or hail, good producers can pull a rabbit out of a hat.
Finally, it’s always worth checking that the vintage on the shelf or online is the one I’m recommending, which is usually based on a recent tasting. It’s not that an older vintage wouldn’t be fine, it’s just that I can’t vouch for it. Some retailers rotate stocks faster than others, after all.
Five vintages to look out for
Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Pouilly-Fumé 2021 £13.50, 12.5%. Elegant, crisp Loire sauvignon that benefits from a year’s ageing. Significantly cheaper than Sancerre, too.
Welmoed Sauvignon Blanc 2023 £7.65 Co-op (£8 online), 13.5%. A super-fresh, zesty Stellenbosch sauvignon from this year’s vintage. Would be great with fish and chips.
Tesco Finest Viña del Cura Rioja Reserva 2018 £10, 13.5%. If you like an old-school, mellow rioja, this one is perfect. Especially with roast lamb.
Domaine Font de Courtedune Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2019 £31.90 (or £28.35 by the case) Haynes Hanson & Clark, 15%. Gloriously lush, four-year-old chateauneuf that’s worth paying extra for. An ideal roast turkey wine.
Adnams Chardonnay Waitaki, North Otago 2018 £19.99, 13.5%. A mature New Zealand chardonnay from the excellent Forrest estate. Bears comparison with a top white burgundy (which would be a fair bit more expensive). Drink with scallops or a posh fish pie.
For more by Fiona Beckett, go to fionabeckett.substack.com
