For a disconcerting moment I felt like I was on safari. A red-headed bird emerged from a nearby bush, fluttering towards a startled white crane that was picking away at the hard ground, and I instinctively picked up my camera to take a photograph.
Until I remembered that along with a clause accepting my potential impending death and the presence of landmines all around me, I had signed away the right to take any photographs that pointed in the direction of North Korea.
