The crossing itself is the first thing
The ferry from Old Goa takes four minutes. Four minutes across the Mandovi river, and the noise of the highway simply stops. There are no ticket counters. You drive or walk on, the flat-bottomed boat moves, and by the time you step off on the Divar side, the twenty-first century has loosened its grip in a way that is difficult to explain to someone who hasn't felt it.
