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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Lois Pryce

Discovering Spain’s Sierra de la Demanda: the land that social media forgot

View of one of the lakes of Sierra de la Demanda, with a low mountain range behind
The Sierra de la Demanda is a vast expanse of limestone peaks, ravines, rivers, gorges and glacial lakes. Photograph: Xavier Fores/Joana Roncero/Alamy

As with paint colours or lipstick shades, naming a mountain range requires serious consideration. It should suggest character, create intrigue, and kindle desire. Who doesn’t want to explore the Crazy Mountains of Montana, or make a fiery pact with California’s Diablo Range? While studying a map of Spain, my interest was piqued by a patch of grey and green emptiness bearing the enticing words: Sierra de la Demanda.

I’ve travelled all over Spain for work and play in the last two decades, but somehow these “demanding” mountains had eluded me. Located in the remote northern interior, halfway between Madrid and Santander, their isolation (and a dearth of English-language Google results) only added to the mystique. The Sierra de la Demanda covers a vast area across Spain’s least populated regions of Burgos, Soria and La Rioja. An investigation of more detailed maps revealed an almost roadless expanse of limestone peaks, valleys, ravines, rivers, gorges and glacial lakes, with the highest peak, San Lorenzo, towering at 2,271 metres (7,451ft). The calling was real.

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