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I thought I’d done my research. I’d read some books, browsed Google Maps Street View and trawled countless websites for inspiration. But I still wasn’t prepared for how ethereally bewitching the north of Tenerife really was. In my mind, this was an island represented by cheap booze, full English breakfasts and week-long squabbles between the Brits and Germans over who placed their towels on the sunbed first. More fool me. What I experienced on just a short trip changed my whole view of this beautiful island.