Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri struck a perfect balance between simplicity and opulence in the brand’s haute couture autumn-winter 2024-25 collection.
Held in the gardens of the Musée Rodin in Paris, the show was an exploration of the power of basics, studying deceptive fabrics and sober palettes.
Chiuri set out to trace a direct line from the ancient Grecian draped peplos via the liberating fashion of the 1920s and into the active lives of women today.
The collection was embellished in gladiator accents, calling to mind the golden age of Greece, as the models embodied latter-day goddesses draped and dripping in monochrome shimmers.
The body remained at the core of every garment, as Chiuri allowed humble fabrics to drape and fall around the frame, often revealing embellished bodysuits and bodices beneath – a subtle nod to the outstanding strength women throughout history have harboured within.
Accents of athleticism were marked by the proliferation of bodysuits, which were illuminated in mirrored embroidery for eye-catching impact. A particular standout exhibited an entirely embellished bodysuit in a plume of dazzling gilded feathers, a tribute to the savoir-faire of the Parisian plumassier craft.
Dior’s daywear was softer, arriving in the form of cape silhouettes, cut-out details and drape-front trousers. Chiuri fused draping with straight-sewn pleats to create extremely fluid and organic lines, contradicting the precision of the garment’s assembly.
The use of fringe emphasised the fluid and frenetic nature of the collection, epitomising the femininity of movement, as gowns swished and shimmered with every step.
Chiuri once again favoured the watery moiré textile as the statement textured fabric throughout. Other fabrics possessed an alluring sense of ambiguity, with rich velvets and substantial jersey’s bearing the hallmarks of a plush weighted satin, used to sculpt skirts and gape necklines.
The colour palette mimicked Dior’s spring-summer collection earlier this year, staying within the realm of camel, blush and monochromes. White and black looks were enriched with muted metallics that weaved shades of ochre, salmon and sunset gold throughout.
Celebrities sitting front row included singer Jennifer Lopez, and tennis star Venus Williams, both adorned in couture from Dior’s spring-summer collection.
