Oh, boy — there really is nothing better than an on-screen cashmere-blend worn by A-lister to remind us of the cut-through power a cracking coat has.
In recent history, you might recall Nicole Kidman’s green, velvet hooded cloak in The Undoing (was it boho? Was it Middle Earth…) in November 2020. In 2022, Sienna Miller’s burnt orange, Ulla Johnson collarless wrap-around jacket (so chic) from No.10 Netflix drama Anatomy of a Scandal had middle-class mothers across the UK pining for the first lady look. Then there was Jeremy Strong as Kendall Roy wearing his funeral coat (Loro Piana, obvs) in season four of Succession which opened the stealth wealth floodgates for yet another round of think pieces last year.
As for the winning coat this autumn? I’m calling it. Nothing will supersede Demi Moore’s exceptional woollen yellow trench in The Substance. Coralie Fargeat’s shell-shocking two hour 20 minute body horror romp sees fading Hollywood star Elisabeth Sparkle (played by Moore) duplicate herself, living alternating weeks as herself and Sue (played by Margaret Qualley) her younger half who, basically, looks far more taut in a leotard.
Naturally, it all goes horribly wrong. But while neither protagonist can maintain their looks (you’ll have to witness the grotesque ogre-ing of Sparkle yourself) one magnificent, sculptural coat — so saturated a free-range yolk yellow that it pierces the silver screen — remains steadfast and flawless throughout. Someone give this sartorial triumph an Oscar. Quick.
Where is it from? I am waiting on the precise details from costume designer Emmanuelle Youchnovski. In the meantime, sleuthing has led me to one “Je Suis Le Fleur” number (no, I’ve not heard of it either) where a model shot features very similar jutting lapels, epaulettes and thick, matching straps at the end of each sleeve. It does not appear to be for sale, however.
Anyone actually wanting to clone the look can turn to this season’s runways: the autumn winter 2024 collections with standout sunshine coats included MSGM (patent), Iceberg (leather, in a potent-shade) and Bluemarble (who made the closest to Moore’s; tailored, wool and in a deep, golden yellow). Elsewhere, a faux-fur trim yellow trench from Daniel Lee’s first Burberry collection, shown in February 2023, is still available from MyTheresa, while Hobbs and Alysi each have suitably eye-popping options.
Forget blending in with beige — it’s time to embrace your inner A-list diva spiraling mentally and cover-your-eyes-its-so-foul-to-watch physically out of control.
Best The Substance-esque coats to buy now:
Alysi, peak-lapels single-breasted coat, £336, farfetch.com
Hobbs, Corina coat with wool, £149, hobbs.com
Balardi, Harris Wharf London single breasted coat, £245, lyst.co.uk
Burberry, Kennington oversized gabardine trench coat, £2,690, mytheresa.com
