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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Tom Hunt

‘Delicious, affordable everyday eating’: the best supermarket free-range eggs, tasted and rated

A selection of eggs with different shades of shell in different coloured egg trays.
‘Scored on what truly counts: taste, provenance and welfare.’ Photograph: Robert Billington/The Guardian. Food styling: Robert Billington.

On a recent farm tour of one of the country’s most prestigious organic operations, an agricultural scientist made a point that opened my eyes to better farming standards: free-range chickens, he explained, need cover. Chickens descend from the red jungle fowl of south-east Asia, so it’s no surprise they feel safer under a canopy. Trees provide shade from the sun, shelter from rain and protection from predators, but, more than that, they also encourage birds to roam and express natural behaviour and reduce welfare issues such as feather pecking, resulting in genuinely healthier, happier hens.

When it comes to welfare, forest-reared chickens are the gold standard, so when an egg packer commits to planting trees or providing meaningful canopy cover, as several UK egg brands do, I know the quality is likely to be superior. It’s also worth noting that, while free-range chickens gain outdoor access at only 21 weeks, organic hens are allowed out from 12 weeks – an important distinction in their welfare.

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