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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
National
David Ellis

David Ellis reviews Zephyr: Sleek, tanned and glossy suits some, but my idea of Greek has more soul

Sleek and chic, but in need of warmth: Zephyr’s main dining room

(Picture: Daniel Hambury/Stella Pictures Ltd)

Mum and I held a Greek-themed lunch over the weekend, which proved a shrewd move, and not only for the clouds of ouzo. As food left the kitchen hours behind schedule, we perkily noted that everyone accepted the wait on the grounds of “Greek time” still being a thing. Well, that’s true enough, I thought. Maybe I can start dubbing everything I do “Greek-themed”.

Do those delays matter? Over 17 years of family Corfu trips we have, for instance, occasionally noticed gaps between the mains and puddings that have run on longer than expected — enough time for the wine to run out, say, or for a brand-new waiter to be born, raised and land a job serving at our taverna. Rarely have we cared.

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