Review at a glance: ★★★★☆
This is an era of display model restaurants. London is busy with them, these ornamental show ponies dressed in all the right fixtures and fittings, that draw their intended crowds and serve them plates of nothing soon praised as everything. They are role-play restaurants, for pretend people living artificial lives. It can be wearing, going to these places, wondering in the half light if no one else notices the smoke and mirrors, the make-up, the rehearsed gags. The only comfort is that they will be gone in a year or two, as the fame-starved spotlight searches on, and on, and on.
