
Review at a glance: ★★★★☆
A bleak mist shrouds the restaurant business. Not the ghost of Rachel Reeves — still very much alive; you may have spotted her at a Sabrina Carpenter concert recently — but certainly her essence. The Chancellor’s thuggish budget is playing hell with hospitality, forcing job cuts and closures. The future is neither bright nor orange: it is the brown of an envelope containing final demands.