Review at a glance: ★★☆☆☆
Look, restaurant critics get special treatment, so you probably won’t have a beer spilt over you here. But I can’t guarantee it; it didn’t seem entirely out of keeping. Perhaps it’s just a thing they do? Chinatown once had a reputation for some of this stuff, Wong Kei making its name on a folklore of vaudeville grouchiness that, if it ever existed, has long been given up.
