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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
David Ellis

David Ellis reviews Singburi: Food to die for, but the rest is disastrous

Review at a glance: ★★★☆☆

The original Singburi, the parent to this one, was the sort of place people lied about having been to. Those who went once bragged about being a regular. The myth of it made it: the phone-only reservations, the tellings-off, and the moo krob, which was a kind of Rosetta Stone for London’s mid-2010s Thai revolution. Talk of its cash-only low cost, helped by a BYOB policy, inspired Four Yorkshiremen-like arguments between acolytes: “Thirty quid fer four?! When we went it were a tenner fer 12, and they ’ad to call t’doctor to fit gastric bands to squeeze us out t’door!”

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